Pure Lines, Pig Pen and the Yogi Lite, or Maybe the Boo-Boo

•2020/02/11 • 4 Comments

Jill at the rest on Pig Pen, before she heads out onto one of the Yogi variations.

What the heck am I talking about? On Pig Pen, there are 3 established lines described in the gB that exit to the right from the crack. Of those 3 lines, 2 exit via the large roof bowl  (between the crack and far right). This exit itself, though not in the gB, is a stand that goes at v6 (this is not the Struther’s Problem to the far right, also v6). This stand is part of what makes Yogi (v10) and Youth Body Explosion (YBE; v11) so hard, yet Yogi Variation finish (VF; v9) skips this stand exit.

Continue reading ‘Pure Lines, Pig Pen and the Yogi Lite, or Maybe the Boo-Boo’

Broken Hold, Same Climb

•2020/02/10 • Leave a Comment

Saxwing on the DL has a long lieback rail at the start. The upper half of the rail broke off a year or so ago, but I’ve only recently reclimbed the line. I never knew the gB rating (v5), but the line now feels like a v5. The old line felt more like a 4. The climb is still an excellent line.

This is the first move after initially matching at right hand. There’s a small crimp tip visible just right of Jill’s head. The setup uses this edge.

Using a heel hook, the second move is also a big reach, but I don’t think it’s reachy as she’s 5’4″

I’m setting up the heel hook. The finish is still the same.


False Blockhead chipped?

•2019/05/12 • 4 Comments

False Blockhead has been an established problem for decades. The top move is off a sloper (From the gB: “…chuck big for a sloper….”) that I’ve used countless times, but this last Friday, we warmed up on it for a crimp project near Jumbo. After grabbing that “sloper” I immediately felt something wasn’t right– it was incut.

Its incut profile is obvious left of the index finger.

Continue reading ‘False Blockhead chipped?’

The Budweiser Traverse, Bud Light and Your Habenula

•2019/05/12 • 2 Comments

When Matt Beebe sent Tips Begone, he established the first line on that namesake boulder. His next ascent was the traverse exiting left, but that one specifically involved Budweiser, the beer. According to a friend who asked Matt recently, he had named the traverse The Budweiser Traverse, mainly because it involved lots of Budweiser. I always wondered if the traverse was really just called a traverse. It has its own crux one move left from Tips and it can be argued that it’s not a traverse at all but a left exit of the Tips start.

Final moves on the Budweiser traverse.

Continue reading ‘The Budweiser Traverse, Bud Light and Your Habenula’

More Submitted Potential FA’s

•2019/04/29 • Leave a Comment

Another reader who’s a SoCal local and someone I’ve worked with sent me two videos that might be FA’s. Nicholas Tunnicliffe did a nice looking slab line that looks to be right of the Mulligan Slab on the back side of the Dragon Scales boulder described by him as a ‘slab to the right of a tree.’ The second line is a left sit start to the popular False Ayatollah. No grades were given. Here is the first video showing the slab.

Continue reading ‘More Submitted Potential FA’s’

Liquid Chalk With Resin/Rosin

•2019/04/19 • Leave a Comment

These 2 brands* use resin in their liquid chalk formula, but they disguise it using a name most of us wouldn’t know to mean resin: Colophonium or Colophony. Colophon was an ancient Ionic city that produced it’s own resin called: colophonia resina, according to Wikipedia.

As I’ve mentioned previously, most dedicated outside climbers are against the use of resin because it’s semi-permanent and will fill in the texture reducing friction. The only place I know of that a niche group of climbers is still using resin is at Fontainebleau. In Font, if you attempt to climb on the stone right after someone has used Pof, the French term for resin, the rock will feel slicker than normal. This lends itself, the Pof, to being continuously used in order to maintain good friction.

I’m unfamiliar with the long term impact of liquid chalk resin on rock, but the fact remains there are more climbers today resulting in more outside climbing, and the resin is designed to stick to stuff. I recommend to play it safe and avoid such products. When holds aren’t brushed by climbers, the chalk can build up to the point that it creates a solid/hard paste of oils, dirt and chalk on the rock that can’t be removed easily. With resin, it seems like it would be worse. This paste means you are not actually in contact with the rock, so friction is usually worse. Fontainebleau has a fair number of popular lines with this condition.

Look for the word Colophonium or Colophony. It means resin.

*I wrote the draft of this in September of last year and forgot to state the brand. Ugh, lame. Anyways, the point is still valid to look for the key words in the ingredients.

Reader-Submitted Potential FA’s

•2019/04/19 • Leave a Comment

Here are three potential FA’s by a visiting Aussie Bevan Ashby. One is on the north face of the Ninja boulder (actual text from Bevan):

Barker Dam – Ninja Boulder (R of Like a Ninja). V6 – 11ft – * – jump start from sloping LH edge then climb up and top out (no stacking pads). Video @ https://youtu.be/6-KQfZGhAFk.

This line looks to be a fine addition to that boulder. Second problem text:

Cap Rock – Fluff Boulder (R of Fluff). V5 – 10ft – * – sit start from RH sidepull then climb up overhanging groove and top out. Video @ https://youtu.be/IEi5FiN4fD

This line also looks good. Nearly every time I walk past this, I wonder about trying it. Thanks Bevan for showing more motivation than myself! The climb moves slightly right away from the left arete problem. The third problem but without video:

Cap Rock – Colliherb Boulder (L of Border Collie). V7 – 12ft – * – sit start from LH sidepull beneath undercut arete then climb up and top out. No video (ridiculously windy).

This line is the sit start to Border Collie. Continue reading ‘Reader-Submitted Potential FA’s’

Climber Trash!

•2019/04/19 • Leave a Comment

Since this happened just this last weekend, I wanted to mention it. Finger tape seems to be a big issue at Jtree probably because of the rough nature of the rock; regardless, it’s still important to pick up after yourself.

This finger tape was left at the Tips Begone boulder.

Oops, almost missed this one…

And, since we’re on this topic of being a good climbing steward, please brush tick marks off after you are done climbing.

Posting Has Returned…

•2019/04/19 • Leave a Comment

It’s been a busy year in terms of work, but we’ve also been reluctant to post about new hard lines because of the potential for chipping. Not all lines are susceptible to chipping but some are, and this has lead to the current hiatus on posting FAs. Regardless, we have many other lines to post about including followers who have submitted video for potential FAs themselves.

If you’re not careful with crag food, you could get a native species going home with you! Pictured here is a mouse that was looking for food while we were at a popular boulder problem, Strawberry Contraceptives. In general it’s best to keep food stored in sealed containers. At the Tips Begone boulder, we’ve found wood rats running around our stuff.

Peromyscus (not sure which species as there are 4 for Joshua Tree) or deer mouse.

This is how “friendly” these animals are. They’ve become very comfortable around peeps.

Luckily we saw him and put everything away because human food is not good for wildlife, and because they could/would chew through packaging. We’ve had a squirrel attempt to drag a box of cookies off, and wood rats that run through everything.


Driving Skills…

•2018/05/20 • 1 Comment

Giving up on the Palm Springs Tramway’s overly long line, we encountered one driver’s approach to leaving.