The Sleeping Master, a Ryan Campground Sloper Traverse.

•2015/02/15 • Leave a Comment

Prior to the new guidebook being published, I had climbed a short and low problem called One Trick Toey, but for unknown reasons, it was never included in the gB. Since that time, the key “trick toey” move changed because part of the slot feature broke off. Luckily, it probably won’t break any more, but unfortunately, it changed the difficulty of the first move considerably. That “trick toe” move is now much harder to perform. I actually only use the toe slot now for the match move on the sloper lip. The original line went right after the sit start move then topped out (you can also top it out straight from the slopers), but this new line goes left all the way to the 5.9 mantel called Dreaming of the Mantel.

The Sleeping Sensei, Ryan Campground, Jill entering the first crux sequence of the traverse.

The Sleeping Master, Ryan Campground, Jill entering the first crux sequence of the traverse.

Continue reading ‘The Sleeping Master, a Ryan Campground Sloper Traverse.’

2 New Problems at Stonehenge

•2015/01/28 • Leave a Comment

Last weekend I added a new line called Flowers For Algernon, v6-7, behind Leisure World, v1, that sits in a corridor accessible from the approach from Cap Rock. The line is maybe 20 feet, but the last 8 feet is easy. The downclimb is left from the top finishing to the right of Sand Castle, v3. The right edge of the line is overhanging and inches away from the giant Leisure World boulder. On the front side is another problem we did months previously called Exit Through the Gift Shop (sit), v4. It tops out at the same summit of Flowers, climbing a 12 foot 5.5 slab above a huge jug.

Jill trying the first move on Flowers for Algernon, v6 or 7. The line continues up to the two shallow huecos above and right of Jill.

Jill trying the first move on Flowers for Algernon, v6 or 7. The line continues up to the two shallow huecos above and right of Jill. The top is out of the frame.

Continue reading ‘2 New Problems at Stonehenge’

Memento Vivere, v10, Marion Mtn

•2015/01/27 • Leave a Comment

Anthony Tarascio has added another stellar line at Marion Mountain, San Jacinto, CA. It climbs a face to an arete and is reasonable tall save for a rising landing zone. He’s calling it v10 and says it’s about 1.5 miles up the trail.

Here is a video, originally posted on his facebook page, courtesy Joey:

If you aren’t aware of where Marion Mountain is, it’s a campground and trailhead that sits south of the Black Mountain turnoff on highway 243 maybe half way to Idyllwild.

Congrats on establishing the line and developing Marion into a real bouldering crag. He and others have begun to develop dozens of problems with many more to come.

Ticks That Don’t Bite, But Make The Eyes Sore

•2015/01/21 • Leave a Comment

This shot was taken on the day before New Year’s eve by our friend Olivia and shows what NOT to do… walk away leaving one’s chalk detritus visible. The line is called Slash BabyFace, v0, and is a stellar line with two moderates exiting left or up and left. It’s pretty standard practice amongst outside climbers to brush tick marks off.

slash babyface slashed with white courage.

slash babyface slashed with white courage.

The photo doesn’t do the scene much justice, but I think you get the point. Buy a brush, or search the lost ‘n found at your local gym. They’re handy for more than just removing tick marks.

Bobby’s Neighbor Pat, a problem in search of love.

•2015/01/20 • 2 Comments

2 weekends ago, Mike Turner, et al, put up a short problem in Indian Cove on the walkup over the slabs on the way to Rattlesnake Canyon. The  approximate location is on the slabs after you walk through the vegetation in the wash. Along the incline, on the right side part way up (heading due south), is a small grotto with the problem facing you as you enter this open area amongst the boulders. Turner and Alex Wasbin thought it was somewhere in the 5 or 6 point range. Here is a video link to the problem called Bobby’s Neighbor Pat, v5/6.

Bobby's Neighbor Pat, v5/6. Problem starts matched at right hand.

Bobby’s Neighbor Pat, v5/6. Problem starts matched at right hand.

Continue reading ‘Bobby’s Neighbor Pat, a problem in search of love.’

The Prisoner – Marion Mountain, CA

•2015/01/11 • 3 Comments

Congrats to Anthony Tarascio who sent the first part of his project on Marion Mountain; it’s called The Prisoner. The link is to the youtube video. Marion Mountain has only recently been sussed for bouldering, though it’s a trail that leads up to both Marion Mountain and the summit of Mt. San Jacinto. He told me the stand he’d guessed at 8 or 9, but that was before he sent it. The line also has a considerably harder sit (project) that starts to the right and moves up then left to where he starts the stand (shown in the video).

Video frame grab from Anthony's send of The Prisoner.

Video frame grab from Anthony’s send of The Prisoner.

MM has a legit approach up a sustained trail that takes upwards of 1+ hours. The bouldering potential is good but hasn’t been fully explored. I’ve done the hike once and but didn’t climb.

quote of the … actually my first quote here at JTB

•2015/01/10 • Leave a Comment

I haven’t posted much lately, but when I came across this quote, I just had to post it:

“If you can’t keep your shit together when you’re in pain, you might as well go home.”

Who said it and in what context? Hint: it’s not current but from the 90’s.

Happy New Year!


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