Mr. Freeze

•2015/04/12 • 3 Comments

Sunday, I repeated the toprope line Mr. Freeze ground up. It was originally rated 12a or v4 as a toprope, but John Weinberg, who rehearsed it on TR then climbed it without a rope last year in December 2013, called it a 5, maybe harder. I felt it was probably a v5, sent on my second try. The crux is the first move, getting off the ground and going to the high left crimp, but the mental crux is the move back to the crack at about 15 feet. The line climbs the face directly right of Butterfly crack at Quail Springs turnout, or Trashcan rock.

One more move before heading to the crack at left on Mr. Freeze, v5

One more move to go before heading to the crack at left on Mr. Freeze, v5

Continue reading ‘Mr. Freeze’

Another Tall Line at Marion

•2015/04/05 • 1 Comment

Here is a new tall line at Marion Mountain, unknown difficulty, put up by Trevor Elste. It’s called Liquidation of Anachronism at what he calls the Little Marion area. Video is worth seeing to get a better scale and idea of the climbing. Fall is not ideal.

Cool line!

Cool line!

screen grab from an Instagram posting.

screen grab from an Instagram posting.

Marion Mtn. Highball

•2015/03/22 • Leave a Comment

On Saturday, Anthony Tarascio sent his project Shadow of the Colossus, v10, an impressive line up a massive boulder, about an hours’ hike up the main trail. A video of his send can be seen here. He explained the topout involves exiting over and around an offwidth crack too large for fists. If you’re into offwidths you’ll be psyched to do the exit moves on this awesome line! If not, he said he grabbed a sloping crimp, pasted a high foot and kept bumping up until he got a decent hold before getting his body over onto the slab.

The crux is the first move from the sit off underclings.  It requires the standard practice of pulling on and hesitating before firing the dyno. He felt the first move was a 9 with the next section about an 8.

The crux is the first move from the sit off underclings. It requires the standard practice of pulling on and hesitating before firing the dyno. He felt the first move was a 9 with the next section about an 8.

Congratulations on establishing a 5 star line!

Continue reading ‘Marion Mtn. Highball’

Past Sends and French Senders

•2015/03/11 • 5 Comments

Here is a video that you may have not seen before called American Life Style: Josua Tree [sic]. It features Romain Desgranges and Fred Rouhling climbing the lines Bobcat Blood (gB name: Frenchie) and Scatterbrain & Co. (gB name: Scatterbrain Sit), among others.

Screen grab of Scatterbrain sit send.

Screen grab of Scatterbrain sit send.

The video also shows them trying two problems at the Ryan Mountain Trailhead parking area (on the right just before Sheeps Pass heading towards GTR). One of the problems, as far as I know, is off limits because of archeological evidence:

At the Ryan Mountain Trailhead parking, this problem is visible from the road.

At the Ryan Mountain Trailhead parking, this problem is visible from the road.

Here is the other problem at the Trailhead parking area:

I'm not sure if this problem has any issues with access.

I’m not sure if this problem has any issues with access.

I’d seen the video before but forgot about it until Noel brought it to my attention via a Facebook response he got from Romain in 2011:

“For scatterbrain i think perhaps v13 but if you are taller it’S fit sûr easyer… And we call it satterbrain & co
For the second one we call it bobcat’s blood for a small v11 !”

The gB rates Bobcat’s Blood v8 and Scatterbrain sit v11. Here are two screen grabs of Bobcat’s Blood. The first shows that the start is a jump and the second shows him working the move to the horizontal sloper before the upper crux sequence:

jump start to the higher hold on Bobcat's Blood.

jump start to the higher hold on Bobcat’s Blood.

Using an undercling move to gain the matching sloper.

Using an undercling move to gain the matching sloper.

Thanks goes to Noel for this additional information from Romain: “Nice to speak with you about the best climb place in the world joshua [sic].” Can’t agree more! ;)

The Sleeping Master, a Ryan Campground Sloper Traverse.

•2015/02/15 • Leave a Comment

Prior to the new guidebook being published, I had climbed a short and low problem called One Trick Toey, but for unknown reasons, it was never included in the gB. Since that time, the key “trick toey” move changed because part of the slot feature broke off. Luckily, it probably won’t break any more, but unfortunately, it changed the difficulty of the first move considerably. That “trick toe” move is now much harder to perform. I actually only use the toe slot now for the match move on the sloper lip. The original line went right after the sit start move then topped out (you can also top it out straight from the slopers), but this new line goes left all the way to the 5.9 mantel called Dreaming of the Mantel.

The Sleeping Sensei, Ryan Campground, Jill entering the first crux sequence of the traverse.

The Sleeping Master, Ryan Campground, Jill entering the first crux sequence of the traverse.

Continue reading ‘The Sleeping Master, a Ryan Campground Sloper Traverse.’

2 New Problems at Stonehenge

•2015/01/28 • Leave a Comment

Last weekend I added a new line called Flowers For Algernon, v6-7, behind Leisure World, v1, that sits in a corridor accessible from the approach from Cap Rock. The line is maybe 20 feet, but the last 8 feet is easy. The downclimb is left from the top finishing to the right of Sand Castle, v3. The right edge of the line is overhanging and inches away from the giant Leisure World boulder. On the front side is another problem we did months previously called Exit Through the Gift Shop (sit), v4. It tops out at the same summit of Flowers, climbing a 12 foot 5.5 slab above a huge jug.

Jill trying the first move on Flowers for Algernon, v6 or 7. The line continues up to the two shallow huecos above and right of Jill.

Jill trying the first move on Flowers for Algernon, v6 or 7. The line continues up to the two shallow huecos above and right of Jill. The top is out of the frame.

Continue reading ‘2 New Problems at Stonehenge’

Memento Vivere, v10, Marion Mtn

•2015/01/27 • Leave a Comment

Anthony Tarascio has added another stellar line at Marion Mountain, San Jacinto, CA. It climbs a face to an arete and is reasonable tall save for a rising landing zone. He’s calling it v10 and says it’s about 1.5 miles up the trail.

Here is a video, originally posted on his facebook page, courtesy Joey:

If you aren’t aware of where Marion Mountain is, it’s a campground and trailhead that sits south of the Black Mountain turnoff on highway 243 maybe half way to Idyllwild.

Congrats on establishing the line and developing Marion into a real bouldering crag. He and others have begun to develop dozens of problems with many more to come.

 
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