Line Next to Saxwing…

•2021/01/24 • Leave a Comment

I climbed a line to the left of Saxwing on the DL (which lies north of the Nicole Overhang) and dubbed it Saxwing on the LL. The line felt like v3 or so. I chose not to exit more directly above but instead traversed to finish on the original Saxwing, mainly because the direct was grainy. There is a hold left of the DL exit but may need cleaning for a more direct finish. Below is the video that my friend, Jonathan, shot of me. The climb starts with a mantle then traverses right.

Another Possible FA, This One Just Past Finger Fetish

•2021/01/18 • 2 Comments

A new contributor to fa’s, Richard Farbman, sent me this video below of what he believes is one. He’s calling it an 8. Based on the video, it appears to be an eliminit, but the moves look cool and worth climbing. As readers may know, I like eliminits and want to be clear that they require specific hold(s) at a specific point thus deviating from the natural line. In this case, though there’s a jug to the right, the climb stays left finishing onto a mantle shelf.

He’s calling it Marvelous Mr Man-tle.

Thanks, Richard.

New Line Near Igneous Ambiance

•2021/01/18 • Leave a Comment
Jordan Mathew has added a new line called Off The Rail, and it’s behind and to the right of Igneous Ambiance on an upper shelf boulder. He’s calling it an 8, and it looks to be very good. Below are some photos and the youtube link.

Off The Rail. Igneous is behind to the left and Chorizo Tacos is to the right below

Continue reading ‘New Line Near Igneous Ambiance’

Possible New FA Near Planet X

•2020/12/06 • Leave a Comment

A follower of this blog, Jordan, sent me his information on a boulder problem he put up that resides behind the Satellite boulder. He said he cleaned and scrubbed the line and after sending called it Space Station. The arete is reasonable tall with the ending finishing over another boulder. I’ve personally walked into the corridor and thought the line was worth doing but never tried it. From my knowledge, it seems to be an FA. If anyone has more information, please feel free to forward it to me. He says the line went at about “v6 or so.”

Here is the link to the youtube video. He says he started the video a bit late, so the initial move(s) are not shown, but as he states, “I started matched down low on an obvious jug feature (below where my right foot is at the start of the video).”

Thanks for the submission, Jordan! We look forward to trying your new line.

Broken Flowers, Still “Broken” After All These Years

•2020/08/17 • Leave a Comment

Broken Flowers was a line Jon Wright and I did back in 2009. There’s both a sit and a stand. The line is very cool, moves are committing and the gB still has the information on the stand start (thus the line itself) wrong. Not to beat a dead horse, but not only did I post accurately about it 2010 here, I even showed it to the gB author and explained the details of the climb. Continue reading ‘Broken Flowers, Still “Broken” After All These Years’

Update to My Blog Email

•2020/08/07 • Leave a Comment

I’ve switched my email for the blog from gmail to proton mail. The new email address is Here is a parting shot from my visit to the work shed we have at home. Any ornithologists out there? Can you better identify this bird? It’s in Orange County, ca. But that my mean nothing since we’ve seen birds from Africa flying around here.

Orange Crowned Warbler?

This little bird got stuck in the work shed flying around the rafters.

Update: A workmate of Jill’s says it’s a Swinhoe’s-Indian White-Eye, and it’s not native.

The Fires of GTR. Well, Mini Fires That Is

•2020/07/17 • 4 Comments

Hello again. How bluntly can I put this? Ah, fuck it, here it is. (More bad news depending on your perspective.) Below are several pictures of “adventurers” making out like wilderness survival folk along Geology Tour Road, GTR as I refer to the geographical area. The farthest fire pit away from the road was around Pinched Loaf. That’s pretty far and adventuresome! Damn, we have to plan big time to reach Pinched Loaf. Ok, enough of the sarcasm. Here they are:

This one is personal, sorta. Jill and I put up a sit that uses the left low angled crimp and up right a higher angled crimp. The burn is the heel hook next to the left hand.

Continue reading ‘The Fires of GTR. Well, Mini Fires That Is’

Pure Lines, Pig Pen and the Yogi Lite, or Maybe the Boo-Boo

•2020/02/11 • 4 Comments

Jill at the rest on Pig Pen, before she heads out onto one of the Yogi variations.

What the heck am I talking about? On Pig Pen, there are 3 established lines described in the gB that exit to the right from the crack. Of those 3 lines, 2 exit via the large roof bowl  (between the crack and far right). This exit itself, though not in the gB, is a stand that goes at v6 (this is not the Struther’s Problem to the far right, also v6). This stand is part of what makes Yogi (v10) and Youth Body Explosion (YBE; v11) so hard, yet Yogi Variation finish (VF; v9) skips this stand exit.

Continue reading ‘Pure Lines, Pig Pen and the Yogi Lite, or Maybe the Boo-Boo’

Broken Hold, Same Climb

•2020/02/10 • Leave a Comment

Saxwing on the DL has a long lieback rail at the start. The upper half of the rail broke off a year or so ago, but I’ve only recently reclimbed the line. I never knew the gB rating (v5), but the line now feels like a v5. The old line felt more like a 4. The climb is still an excellent line.

This is the first move after initially matching at right hand. There’s a small crimp tip visible just right of Jill’s head. The setup uses this edge.

Using a heel hook, the second move is also a big reach, but I don’t think it’s reachy as she’s 5’4″

I’m setting up the heel hook. The finish is still the same.


False Blockhead chipped?

•2019/05/12 • 4 Comments

False Blockhead has been an established problem for decades. The top move is off a sloper (From the gB: “…chuck big for a sloper….”) that I’ve used countless times, but this last Friday, we warmed up on it for a crimp project near Jumbo. After grabbing that “sloper” I immediately felt something wasn’t right– it was incut.

Its incut profile is obvious left of the index finger.

Continue reading ‘False Blockhead chipped?’