Thin Start to Collieherb Face

•2022/04/10 • Leave a Comment

Right of the blunt arete, on the same face as Collieherb, lies a sweet two move micro thin face climb that exits into the middle of Collieherb. Below is a video of Jill doing it. Awkward if you’re tall, me thinks. 😉 We called it Collies On Herb. If it’s been done then now you know it exists. 🙂

Under The Buggy, of Course And Buggy

•2022/04/10 • Leave a Comment

Jill and I found a problem that we called Under The Buggy while walking around Course and Buggy, a trad route on the west side north of Intersection/JBMFP. The problem itself resides just south of the famous dihedral, maybe 30-40 feet. Getting to it is best via CnB then head left and find it amongst rocks. Continue reading ‘Under The Buggy, of Course And Buggy’

Save Your Old Tooth Brush

•2022/04/08 • Leave a Comment

Yes, if you don’t have one in your bouldering quiver, you should add one to help prevent this specific condition.

The buildup of chalk, hand oils and grime prevents the skin from actually contacting the rock.

Continue reading ‘Save Your Old Tooth Brush’

The Monkey Flower’s New Branch

•2022/04/08 • Leave a Comment

If it hasn’t been done, I’ve added a left exit to Monkey Flowers. Call it Monkey Flowers Left or maybe Flower Monkey, Monkey Bars, I digress; regardless, it’s a cool line with a killer knee bar crux. The line offers at least one extra point value for the effort.

Screeen grab from the left exit of Monkey Flower.

Continue reading ‘The Monkey Flower’s New Branch’

New Line at Cap Rock

•2021/12/16 • Leave a Comment

The new line is called House of Mirrors, v4. It sits behind Collieherb. The problem, according to Will Levandowski (@_will_lev) who did the FA, is “18 feet with (a) perfect mantle.”

Will on House of Mirrors.

Continue reading ‘New Line at Cap Rock’

For The Record. Electro Gecko 2000

•2021/07/30 • 4 Comments

I’ve noticed some chalk on Electro Gecko 2000. Since starts are rarely articulated, I’m posting a photo of how I started it including what I stood on, and the amount of bend in the arm. It’s a jump start as the gB says.

This is pretty much my starting position for the grade given. I stood on one pad to jump to that lighter shade of a bulge above my head.

If you’re shorter, pad up to get that arm bend, if you’re taller you could forgo a regular pad for a topper. The crux IS the jump and subsequent stick/match on a poor sloper directly above. When I jumped, I first stopped at that terrible looking crease of a bulge right and up of my left hand then popped to the high poor sloper. I’m not saying anyone has to follow this exact scenario, but the given name and grade is for that exact experience.

The grade is questionable as I originally called it a 6 then upped it to an 8. I’ve done it 2 or 3 times and don’t know how to grade the grip experience of the left hand jump/campus moves. I don’t smear my fingers but actually pinch on 5 crystals with fingers and thumb. I find it way cool and look forward to finding a taller climb with more of these holds.

A Line Missing From The Guidebook

•2021/07/30 • 2 Comments

In the Mulligan Corridor of the Planet X area, there are two lines listed in the gB, a right 8 and a center 4. They are named Mulligan 1 and 2. The missing line is left of the Mulligan 1. These were all sent at the approximate same time, and below is a video of me repeating my line. The next video shows Jill doing the gB-listed v4 (Mulligan 1).

Basically, the center line uses a good crimp with the left hand and the left line uses that crimp with the right hand. They are both unique yet both finish with the same topout. The left goes at maybe a 5?? Or they are both 5’s or both 4’s… I digress.

Sit start to the missing line, Love By Other Means.

Continue reading ‘A Line Missing From The Guidebook’

Raspberry Contraceptives Breaks Again

•2021/07/30 • Leave a Comment

It was always that left start hold that kept breaking, but now it’s the right incut start hold finally becoming a mere stub of its former self. Though the obvious top of the hold is gone, an undercling remains. We didn’t get a chance to climb it again, so we have no opinion on its current grade. Here are some photos of that broken hold.

The majority of the hold has broken off.

Another view.

Gateway West Additions, GTR

•2021/07/18 • Leave a Comment

Back in 2019 we ventured back to the Gateway area to warmup for when Jill was projecting Cryptic Tips, at the Tips Be Gone boulder several hundred meters WSW along an obvious shallow dry wash. In the course of multiple trips, she established 2 new sit starts to a previous stand I’d done in 2010.

Jill at the stand start to Chrysopoeia originally done in 2010.

Cool reach.

Continue reading ‘Gateway West Additions, GTR’

Yet Another Chop Job, But Not in Stone

•2021/04/06 • 2 Comments

On February 23rd, 2020, we stumbled onto a boulder problem on the south side of the Love Nest crag. And what I’m holding isn’t the consequence of a tree trimming service, but one of a number of examples of a set of bushes cleared for an FA. These lines are fairly obvious, but the fall zone isn’t that inviting. And below the boulder is one particular bush that had grown to a fairly immense size and covering the entire gap between the face and a low, flat boulder about 2-4 feet back. Most likely I photographed this shortly after the act was done as the leaves on the chopped branches were still green.

Continue reading ‘Yet Another Chop Job, But Not in Stone’