Mantel Madness

•2016/02/08 • 2 Comments

At the last parking space on the left down Lost Horse road is the access point to this posts’ problems. Directly in front of the parking area’s left side is a low angle slab that starts at a lip about 3 feet off the ground. In that previous post, I mention an arete sloper (called The Jacobin) that we did; just to the left is this mantel problem.

There are 2 problems on it that I added the previous weekend. The easier line (Left Wing Traverse, v2) starts at the center of the lip on slight indented slopers and traverses left till it’s easy to mantel out. This left traverse has a dab potential, so I used a thin 1 inch pad over the boulder underneath. The harder line (Left Wing Mantel, v5) goes straight up the center with a mantel. I did it with right leg up, but it can be done, I think, with the left leg leading. My right shoulder is still in rehab, so locking off high enough to begin pressing is a no go… thus I went with the right leg and left shoulder lockoff. Regardless, it’s a technical mantel worth doing if you care to learn how to mantel a sloping ledge.

WR and the Quest for Status

•2016/02/08 • 2 Comments

A friend sent me this link of a boulderer trying to send White Rastafarian (WR). His friends did an admirable job of protecting him, for the most part, but what’s significant is the lack of skill for toping out that the boulderer himself displayed.

Just after this reach, the boulderer drops back to the resting position then continues to release and fall...

Just after this reach, the boulderer drops back to the resting position then continues to release and fall…

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ABS 16 Youth, A Commentary on Setting

•2016/01/20 • 8 Comments

Update: I wrote this back in April 2015 shortly after the ABS Youth Nationals and am now posting it. I wasn’t completely sure I wanted to do this, but as time goes on, it seems more and more necessary to speak up about these and similar issues.

Disclaimer: I’m a product developer for Evolv, having made several pairs of shoes for Ashima, and Ashima is an Evolv sponsored professional athlete.

Having not been involved in coaching actively at the youth competition scene for a few years now, I recently reviewed (as suggested by a friend) one problem for one age group of youth nationals that occurred a short time ago. I only looked at one of the categories since the competitors are of a world class standard, and I have limited knowledge of one of the climbers. This was Division B Youth Female. The top three competitors were Lauren Bair, Ashima Shiraishi and Brooke Raboutou. Ashima and Brooke climb at an internationally recognized level outside and of Lauren I know little.

Lauren Biss reaching the undercling with her foot on the low sloper. Problem #2 Youth B Nationals.

Lauren Bair reaching the undercling with her foot on the low sloper. Problem #2 Youth B Nationals. More importantly, her wrist is bent (requiring additional reach) to facilitate the weight transfer necessary to do the move.

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Debunking a Few Myths About Monument Status

•2016/01/20 • Leave a Comment

Here is a nice writeup on what it means to designate a National Monument and the unfortunate reality of congressional action (or inaction in this case) versus the Antiquities Act. It’s at Mojavedesertblog.com.

Slow Progress…

•2016/01/10 • Leave a Comment

Here’s a cool but short line we added just south of Shark Fin Arete on the same side of Geology Tour Road. To the right is the real masterpiece, but that’s going to take some time. The short line is called Echt, maybe v5. I noticed a small bit of rock wear on the low left start foot, but it was higher up the continuous edge, not where it’s obvious to use… so maybe it’s been done already. It is in an obvious spot. Maybe it was done with both hands higher up which would explain why the upper part is the only place wear exists.

The start of Echt.

The start of Echt.

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Public Places vs. Privatized Practices

•2016/01/10 • 2 Comments

I was going to call it Militias and Our Public Lands, but 4 P’s sound so more catchy. The reality is what is generalized by some and trivialized by others, is in fact a complex history where local solutions have evolved over a century involving virtually every player from the Piutes to ranchers, to business and environmentalists.

The group that took over the headquarters at Mahleur National Wildlife Refuge is called Citizens for Constitutional Freedom and have characterized the actions of the federal government as tyrannical and overreaching from what I can best ascertain are based on two primary incidents: an uncontrolled fire adjacent to the refuge by the Hammonds (Dwight and Steve) that resulted in jail time and an increasing refuge size dating from 1908.

Two articles, both footnoted in the above link to the Mahleur National Wildlife Refuge help frame the actions in an historic context, here and here.

This is one of two rusting vehicles at the Wallstreet Mill area near Barker Dam.

This is one of two rusting vehicles at the Wallstreet Mill area near Barker Dam.

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Ashima Shiraishi on Tierre de Sienne

•2015/12/15 • Leave a Comment

Here is a simple edit of Ashima sending in Hueco over Thanksgiving using her send footage. She sent on her first day using tape on the left index finger. It only took a handful of tries before her finger split because she uses a smaller edge down and left of the main thin crimp that others use. The right side of that edge, which is slightly down-sloping, has a micro notch right where she places her index tip.

Here’s a still of her trying the crux earlier on the first day:

Ashima Shiraishi attempting the crux on Tierre de Sienne.

Ashima Shiraishi attempting the crux on Tierre de Sienne.

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