Flight Attendant Sit Clarification

•2017/11/13 • Leave a Comment

After becoming aware of what others are calling the sit/yabo start to Flight Attendant, I’ve decided to write this so others will know what the original FA start was.

This is the original start for the sit.

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Blockhead Revisited

•2017/07/23 • 4 Comments

The newest edition of the JT guidebook (2nd Wolverine Edition) has incorrect numbering for the problems on the Blockhead boulder, even though the previous 2 editions (1st Wolverine/1st KDpublishing) had the numbers correct. The copy is correct (meaning nothing was changed), but the photo is now incorrect. Ugh. Regardless, Jill added the linkup from the sit start of Nitwit exiting on False Blockhead, called Nitwit Head, v6. If anyone had done this prior to January 29, 2017, let Robert or this blog know, so he can accurately establish the historicity of JT bouldering.

Start position for Jill. Basically being matched on the low crimps is the yabo start.

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Liquid Chalk NOT for Climbing (and Commentary)

•2017/07/23 • Leave a Comment

Here is an American brand of chalk you can buy on Amazon that would raise serious eyebrows at the crag in the UK… and here too. It has resin in it. Also known as Pof in France, and used previously (still used today by a few) in Fontainebleau before chalk was introduced. Here in the States, I’d avoid this type of liquid chalk.

Check out the last ingredient. Pine Resin.

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Chipped, Twice At Black ?

•2017/07/08 • 2 Comments

What I’m referring to are holds that appear to be chipped. I say ‘appear’ not lightly as the evidence (dependent on the corroboration of an early ascensionist, which I believe to be sincere and accurate) points to chipping on Shoot The Moon (originally rated 10) and Dream Tiger (originally rated 9?). The condition of the 2 holds in question are today quite different from what they were originally, according to the same person who helped establish many of today’s hard lines at Black. My descriptions are based on their account.

Shoot The Moon crux crimp. Look natural?

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‘New’ problems east of Psyche

•2017/06/25 • 2 Comments

Just prior to our trip to Fontainebleau, earlier this year, we decided to check out boulders we’d seen a couple years ago. It was as I remembered but with limited potential. The one good thing we didn’t forget was the quality of the stone. It’s excellent and not like the typical course grain slopers of Hidden Valley campground and environs. And it’s not the same rock just without the slopers, its surface is almost entirely patina-like but also well formed edges and corners that aren’t the product of an obvious fracture. Fragments broke, but it exposed good stone as well.

Mousetrap, v0

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Black No. 36

•2017/03/30 • Leave a Comment

This is an awesome technical problem at Petit Bois, Black No. 39 36… the last in the Black circuit.

Jill on Black No. 39. That chalk patch left of her left knee is very important.

Nicole Overhang Has A Confirmed Sit (Yabo)

•2017/03/13 • Leave a Comment

Though most likely attempted many times, I’ve never heard of the Nicole Overhang Sit getting sent. Maybe it was originally done as a sit as indicated by its orginally harder rating of v8 or 9, but today the Nicole Overhang is known as a stand at v5 or 6. A few days ago Daniel Rudolf sent me his video of his send, rating it v9. If anyone knows of an earlier ascent of the sit please forward it to Robert Miramontes, the gB author. Thanks.

Congratulations! I’m psyched to see it finally confirmed.