For The Record. Electro Gecko 2000

•2021/07/30 • 4 Comments

I’ve noticed some chalk on Electro Gecko 2000. Since starts are rarely articulated, I’m posting a photo of how I started it including what I stood on, and the amount of bend in the arm. It’s a jump start as the gB says.

This is pretty much my starting position for the grade given. I stood on one pad to jump to that lighter shade of a bulge above my head.

If you’re shorter, pad up to get that arm bend, if you’re taller you could forgo a regular pad for a topper. The crux IS the jump and subsequent stick/match on a poor sloper directly above. When I jumped, I first stopped at that terrible looking crease of a bulge right and up of my left hand then popped to the high poor sloper. I’m not saying anyone has to follow this exact scenario, but the given name and grade is for that exact experience.

The grade is questionable as I originally called it a 6 then upped it to an 8. I’ve done it 2 or 3 times and don’t know how to grade the grip experience of the left hand jump/campus moves. I don’t smear my fingers but actually pinch on 5 crystals with fingers and thumb. I find it way cool and look forward to finding a taller climb with more of these holds.

A Line Missing From The Guidebook

•2021/07/30 • 2 Comments

In the Mulligan Corridor of the Planet X area, there are two lines listed in the gB, a right 8 and a center 4. They are named Mulligan 1 and 2. The missing line is left of the Mulligan 1. These were all sent at the approximate same time, and below is a video of me repeating my line. The next video shows Jill doing the gB-listed v4 (Mulligan 1).

Basically, the center line uses a good crimp with the left hand and the left line uses that crimp with the right hand. They are both unique yet both finish with the same topout. The left goes at maybe a 5?? Or they are both 5’s or both 4’s… I digress.

Sit start to the missing line, Love By Other Means.

Continue reading ‘A Line Missing From The Guidebook’

Raspberry Contraceptives Breaks Again

•2021/07/30 • Leave a Comment

It was always that left start hold that kept breaking, but now it’s the right incut start hold finally becoming a mere stub of its former self. Though the obvious top of the hold is gone, an undercling remains. We didn’t get a chance to climb it again, so we have no opinion on its current grade. Here are some photos of that broken hold.

The majority of the hold has broken off.

Another view.

Gateway West Additions, GTR

•2021/07/18 • Leave a Comment

Back in 2019 we ventured back to the Gateway area to warmup for when Jill was projecting Cryptic Tips, at the Tips Be Gone boulder several hundred meters WSW along an obvious shallow dry wash. In the course of multiple trips, she established 2 new sit starts to a previous stand I’d done in 2010.

Jill at the stand start to Chrysopoeia originally done in 2010.

Cool reach.

Continue reading ‘Gateway West Additions, GTR’

Yet Another Chop Job, But Not in Stone

•2021/04/06 • 2 Comments

On February 23rd, 2020, we stumbled onto a boulder problem on the south side of the Love Nest crag. And what I’m holding isn’t the consequence of a tree trimming service, but one of a number of examples of a set of bushes cleared for an FA. These lines are fairly obvious, but the fall zone isn’t that inviting. And below the boulder is one particular bush that had grown to a fairly immense size and covering the entire gap between the face and a low, flat boulder about 2-4 feet back. Most likely I photographed this shortly after the act was done as the leaves on the chopped branches were still green.

Continue reading ‘Yet Another Chop Job, But Not in Stone’

New, Tall Arete.

•2021/04/04 • 3 Comments

Mike Brady and I climbed a new tall arete on the east side of GTR, Geology Tour Road, just east of the Knuckleball boulder at the ground level. It’s maybe 25 feet with a nice jump off exit. We graded it v0 or v1. We both felt the slab start was likely the hardest part at probably 5.10?

Mike Brady exploring new rock. Mind the Gap, v0 or 1.

Continue reading ‘New, Tall Arete.’

Correct? Start To Dodging Bullets (updated)

•2021/03/16 • 8 Comments
Video still with Farbman on first move.

Update: Because of assumed accuracy of sends recorded in video, there has been confusion as to the correct v9 start of Dodging Bullets. Currently via video, many use a long incut rail that faces to the right. This start has been graded lower than 9. Others start using a lower left sidepull undercling and a right undercling and have accepted this as v9. The video that was submitted by Richard Farbman shows this start. It is my opinion that the video shows the correct 9 start. My apologies for not addressing this sooner as I wasn’t aware of how the original ascent by Chris Lindner was done. I’ve reached out to Chris via an older email but haven’t heard back.

Sidenote: We here at JTB blog recommend not trusting video ascents for correctness of bouldering lines. There is often ambiguity with guidebook descriptions, and it’s, though unfortunate, each person’s obligation to figure out the correct parameters if they claim ascents. Of course, just climbing is the real joy, but since there are first ascents, repeats of established lines, by default, beg to follow the original style of Start and End. How one gets from the start to the end is up to each person. Also, for those doing sit or low starts, the rule for shorter persons is to pad up until they reach the holds but not overpad to gain an advantage in body position (this goes for taller folks too).

Original post with corrections: Richard Farbman added a lower (correct) start to Dodging Bullets ( he’s calling it Dodge This) that he’s called a 10; below is the video of the ascent. The climb is on the east side of Geology Tour Road on the north end of the Lechlinski Crack formation, which is the last major formation on the east side. A gB photo shows an arrow pointing to the right side of a big boulder. The climb is on that big boulder but on the back left side.  Y2K is on the west side of the road.

I think this start is an excellent addition that needed to be done.

Nice work regardless, Richard. Sorry for the post corrections. Thanks for the submission.

Timeline 2015: Stone Henge and Cap Rock

•2021/02/24 • 2 Comments

[updated 2020]–This follow-up that I started to write in 2015, then forgot about, is the follow-up on the original story from this post. Here it is.

In the winter of 2014, the Park was very warm during California’s previous drought years with 2015 being no exception. I also tore my left meniscus back in November (2014), leaving me unable to take long hikes or trudge uphill on uneven terrain. This left us with the opportunity to re-explore well-established areas and also give Jill an opportunity to climb established lines. At Stone Henge, I repeated a highball Aron Couzens had done, we then added two lines, in addition to a sit, but we seemed to have lost another problem. More on that later.

3 Honkeys getting prepped for a go…

Continue reading ‘Timeline 2015: Stone Henge and Cap Rock’

Hound Rock’s Hardest Boulder Problem Yet

•2021/02/22 • Leave a Comment

In April of 2018, we finally finished off the last of our projects and obvious lines but not necessarily all the available problems for the area. As I’ve mentioned previously, these boulders sit behind Hound Rocks, so if you were to hike out to the Rocks from Quail Springs via the Access Fund trail, once you arrive at Hound Rocks (not labeled on the sign posts) continue around the formation and head slightly uphill to a handful of boulders up against the hillside. The sign posts point left to the direction of the White Cliffs of Dover crag.

The Reichenbach Problem. Jill exiting the cross over before the final dyno crux.

A view of the boulder and Jill right after the first move

Continue reading ‘Hound Rock’s Hardest Boulder Problem Yet’

Clarification On Blackfeet, The Underground.

•2021/02/11 • Leave a Comment

I came across this video on Youtube that dates from May 13, 2015. In it, the ascentionist claims a send of Blackfeet. Having watched the original FA by Fred Nicole, I know that the start is on the farthest back set of crimps where climber has his right foot. When Nicole did the line, he climbed it with bare feet to get his big toe into two pockets, one for his right foot (start) then one for his left foot (move to rail).

Needless to say, this is another example of poor gB descriptions that don’t define the true nature of such a hard line:

“Yabo start under the roof on a large flake. Punch out to a juggy rail and finish Sketch. 16 ft. tall.”

The description implies it’s one hard move. It’s actually two hard moves plus the transition/setup to do the long reach to the rail. FTR, I don’t fault the climber as his start is a reasonable interpretation of the vague description.