Guidebook Corrections

Update: Since the 2nd Edition has been published, I’ve started to go through the listing below and make corrections (in Red). I’ve also removed the “older entries” and now all of it is in 1st Edition page order. 

This list will be updated whenever I discover something needing attention. The information is fairly obvious and logical, but in sum, it lists the page, problem number, problem name, rating, boulder name, the relevant guidebook description followed by the correct information in bold. The order will be from beginning to the end of the guidebook. After I add something new to it, I will separate what’s more recent from this list (listed upfront) and include it into a master list below. There are minor discrepancies regarding FA’s, but I also don’t know the full history behind some lines and may have incorrectly attributed the FA to us; therefore, I will only comment if I’m fairly sure. In general, I’ll assume Robert is more knowledgeable.

I’ve added another page called Guidebook Additions listing all new problems not in the book. Most likely, this list will just call out the name and area (referencing the guidebook page for that area) and link the post that covers it. Don’t hesitate to contact me if you have any questions. As a reminder, all sit starts were done pulling on, establishing a hesitation or stop, then moving to the first hold.

1st Edition Entries:

(Fixed, 2nd Ed.) Update: Page 65, Problem 44, Mulligan Arete, v4, unnamed boulder. “Start at mini-jugs on the overhand to the left of the arete.” Sunshine Arete, v4, Sunshine rocks. I called it the Starry Night Arete on the Gogh boulder, so I’ll keep it that way. It starts at the lip of the overhang with the right hand on the arete. The low start described above is undone and maybe v6 now done at v7. We tried it one day and melted off. Way too hot that day. Here is the blog post for the send.

(Fixed, 2nd ed.) Page 98, Problem 42, Electro Gecko 2000, v8, boulder next to Yabo Roof boulder: “Start at high slopers and ….” The line is a jump start off one pad (for a person 5′ 11″) with the left hand on a high sloper. I had to stop on a bad sloper up and right for the right hand. I then bumped again with the right to a bad horizontal sloper. Matched and moved left right.

(Page 110) Page 99, Problem 52, Coffee, v5, Formation: “…follow the crack straight up to a mantel.” The line climbs the same as Cigarettes but moves back to the crack to finish directly above. Coffee and Cigarettes are on a boulder that I will call the Formation boulder. Stand and Deliver is part of the formation.

(Not updated, Page 116, gB still shows the stand starting too high. The stand and sit are differentiated by one big move.) Page 105, Problem 3 and 4, Broken Flowers, v7 and v9, Broken Flowers boulder. “… Start at a high edge, then…” The stand starts standing right hand on a pinch overhead height, and the left on the arete low. We heel hooked the arete to get on and do the first move up to a thin edge. The sit is as described, but if you stussy start off the ground without pulling on and establishing a hang, it won’t be v9. Maybe hard v7.

(Fixed, 2nd Ed.) Page 105, Problem 6, Dead Man, v8, Dead Man boulder. v6 was our rating.

(Fixed, Page 121, But the topo map shows the line going straight up while it actually goes slightly right then up, then back left.) Page 108, Problem 20, The North Wind, v6, unnamed boulder. “Start off a boulder, climbing shallow dishes…” Start left of the large boulder in the slot. The shallow dish to the left of the number 20 (guidebook photo) is the start with hands matched. The rating is more like v8. If you start off the boulder you will have effectively missed the entire problem except for the topout. From the slot, it seems more like 18-20 feet.

(Fixed, Page 120, Someone tried or did a left exit after breaking off a branch on the dead tree. Holds are very suspect through the lip.) Page 109, Problem 24 Hobbit Roof, v4, Hobbit Roof boulder. “19 feet.” I think it’s a typo as it’s more like 9 feet and exiting to the left right. It’s starts off a sloper rail–next move lower and you will discover the project crux where there’s a very low start and super low start, but a handhold broke making the crux move VERY hard. I want to return to try it again.

(Fixed sort of, Page 122, The topo lines are still wrong. Basically both problem 25 and 26 start at 26 with them splitting at the underside corner then one going up and the other going left to the arete. Nothing is done on the left edge that is problem 25). Page 109, Problem 25, 26 and 27, The Wrong Arete, v3, Unknown, v3, and Unknown, v1, Wrong Arete boulder. “Hopefully, Wright will write me and right me if this is wrong.” Well, no Wright, but Rob will have to do. The Left line (25) is The Wright Arete, v4, the straight up (problem 26) is the Corner Face, v1. Problem 25 and 26 both start at 26. Problem 25 traverses the poor slopers left of the apex of the diminishing corner. Problem 27 was correctly an unnamed problem but is now Sappy Slab, FA Jill Carpenter, 5.9. And regarding the Wrong Arete…

(Fixed, 2nd Ed.) Page 109, Problem 28, The Wright Arete, v4, Wright Arete boulder. The Wrong Arete, v7. It starts matched at a right facing sidepull about belly or chest height??? After a big move to a matching hold, another big move gains a sloping top. Committing.

(Fixed, 2nd Ed.) Page 109, Problem 30, Unnamed, .9, unnamed boulder. Run from Your Strife, v0, FA Mike Brady.

(Fixed, 2nd Ed.) Page 110, Problem 31, Falling Up the Rabbit Hole, v5 Up the Rabbit Hole boulder. FA Jon Wright.

(Not Updated, Page 138) Page 122, Problem 6 and 7, Turnstyle, v9, and Unnamed, v9, Mulligan Project boulder. Both problems 6 and 7 begin right of and higher then the line drawn for problem 7 in the photo. It’s a very high hold and I think the first move is a jumpstart for the left higher sidepull. If this is incorrect, I think it started with a very high foot and a pull on requiring pads to start. Both FA’s Wills Young. I repeated problem 7, thinking it’s more like v8. The project, problem 8, starts left of 6/7 in the guidebook photo on a flat crimp and a slightly lower and to the right flat crimp. Both crimps are very bad.

(Not Updated, Page 139, problems are off limits so little point to updating them.) Page 122, Problem 10, Unnamed .9, Shipwreck boulder. I noticed he doesn’t show the arete left of Problem 10 or the line right of it. I did a sitstart (v8) matched at the lip for Problem 10. Unpleasant and very technical.

(Not Updated, Page 169) Page 147, Problem 513, Unnamed, v5, Campsite Grotto. I’m calling this line I did awhile ago Boldersweet. Unlike Bittersweet, it’s a bit bolder and it’s sweet. Matt Birch did it over and over and called it v4. I originally called it v7. I think it’s v6 if Alexandria is v6 (which I think is really v5).

(Fixed, 2nd Ed.) Page 207, Problem 78, the Angry Pacifist, v8, Alister’s Cave area. v8 R, Seclusion boulder. The photo on page 208 doesn’t show the exit which is further left. The landing is covered with boulders and is way worse to fall on then for So High. It’s definitely R. 

(Fixed, 2nd Ed.) Page 213, Problem 5, Newton’s Law & Sit, Newton’s Law Boulder. The guidebook upped the rating on the stand to v5. Naw, v4. He DOWNGRADED the sit to v8. On 8a.nu, Dan Mills says he repeated the sit and confirmed the grade. I agree at 7c or v9, and it’s not “grimping” but a full on dyno! 

(Fixed, 2nd Ed.) Page 214, Problem 14, Khandahar, v9, Khandahar Boulder. Guidebook downgraded it from v10. Dan Mills hasn’t claimed a repeat. I haven’t done it myself, but downgrading it makes no sense unless the author repeated it himself or if others have downgraded it. It’s not easy, any part of it.

SUGGESTION: Page 245, Problem 29, Chili Sauce, v7, Moffatt boulder. I would suggest he list the original ascent and the beta that Moffatt used. Essentially, he avoided the left area which has a ledge that can be used as a heel hook or similar. The original line went at v9, and with the heel hook, it felt more like v6. The v7 rating seems to be a compromise rating for the two ways.

(Not Updated, Page 252, my mistake as I said ‘left’ and meant right) Update: Page 215, Problems 17 and 18, Mulligan 1 and 2, Mulligan’s Corridor. “Yabo start in the middle right of the face and…(problem 18)” Via the photo, problem 17 is correct, but there is a line straight up between the two slightly left of problem 18 (problem 29)  (v5), and problem 18 starts way left right with a boulder up against your back. The right hand is on a good sidepull about stomach or chest high. Left hand is low. It traverses left until you can clear the above boulder and exit up into the problem 18 (problem 29).

(Fixed, 2nd Ed.) Page 220, Problem 52, Mulligan Mantel, v4, Dragon Scales. It’s actually called The Nicola. 

(Not Updated, Page 258, I’ll assume previously done) Page 220, Problem 57, Dimples Left, v1, Wishing Well. Mike Brady did this one. 

(Fixed, 2nd Ed.) Page 221, Problem 59, The Wishing Well, v3, Wishing Well. And I did this one. 

(After looking closely at the face, the problem started at or just right of the listed line and went up and right to the blunt arete/bulge. Page 289) Page 245, Problem 30, Mulligan Face, v4, Moffatt Boulder. For the Record, I can’t remember if I did this, though I was given credit.

(Fixed, 2nd Ed.) Page 251, Problem 14, Meadows Direct, v6, Meadows Boulder 1. I did this in the 90’s with a fair bit of cleaning. 

(Page 305, Problem 56) Page 256, Problem 56, Young Problem, v4, Iron Meteorite Boulder. V4? I made it to the arete but came off and couldn’t get back to that point. V4 seems very nominal, and the fall has a boulder under you–just be warned. I’ll update you once I send it. 🙂

(Fixed, 2nd Ed.) Page 321, Problem 1, Obtuse Crack, v1, Obtuse Oyster boulder. “Climbs an overhanging lieback crack.”  We actually called it the Breaching Barnacle and the sit as the Belching Breaching Barnacle. The start is off matched hands about head height and then makes a big move to the lieback crack. If you start off with the high hold, it’s probably v1. We thought maybe v2 or 3 and the sit a grade harder.

(Fixed, 2nd Ed.) Page 321, Problem 3, Oyster Stem, v0, Obtuse Oyster. I actually called this Kelp Me. And it’s a bit reachy for the grade.

(Not Updated, Page 379) Page 321, Problem 4, Crumbing Coral, v2, Obtuse Oyster boulder. This is a project on shite rock. I really liked the moves but the stone seemed, well, terminally ill. I originally called it the Sandy Scallop. Not listed is the right arete that’s actually called the Crumbling Coral, v4, and it uses the same  start of Problem 5, The Obtuse Oyster, v5, around the corner. The picture shows the start of problem 5 correct (the REAL Crumbing Coral trends left from here), but it moves right from here then up.

(Page 378, Problem 6) Page 321, Problem 6, Downclimb, Obtuse Oyster. We actually called it the Tenacious Tentacle.

(Not Updated, Page 380) Page 322, Problem 10, Apertif, Apertif boulder. FA Jill Carpenter.

(Not Updated, Page 399) Page 338, Problem 33, Smooth & Mellow, v4, The Bushmill Boulder. The photo shows the line going up first then left, but unlike Problem 34, On the Rocks, it goes left quickly into the vertical crack visible in the picture that parallels and is left of the boulder line path drawn for the problem.

(Page 399, Problem 34) Page 338, Problem 34, On The Rocks, v7, The Bushmill Boulder. Besides the right undercling, the left hand is on the Smooth & Mellow crimp. It then makes a big move right and up.

(Fixed, 2nd Ed.) Page 344, Problems 63 and 64, Acadicus, v7, and Aegolius, v8, Damo’s Roof area. Neither are done, and most likely will be harder than the given rating. I plan on returning for these as I really like the lines.

(Not Updated, Page 405) Page 344, Problem 57, Orange Marmalade, v7, Blood Orange boulder. v8 is more likely. Sit start matched on a bad pinch head height primarily for the right hand. It doesn’t look like much.

(Not Updated, Page 405) Page 344, Problem 58, Blood Orange, v5. Blood Orange boulder. Sit start in a small grotto with a heel hook out right on a ledge. The heel hook is right over a boulder that most likely will be in your way, marring the aesthetics. From there, go right and then straight up.

(Not Updated, Page 405) Page 344, Problem 55 and 56, Gunwale left, v3, and Gunwale right, v4, Gunwale boulder. The Gunwale was an FA as holds broke under human weight. The line traversed left at the lip then exited up between the two lines in the picture, so I don’t know what the right exit is. If the line was done before, it may have been done from the lip up, but the lower part looked to never be touched by pulling hands. Anyways, the point is I can’t vouch for the right line, but I do think it will go.

Page 414, Problem 4, Velvet Elvis (low start) v8 (Page 352, Problem 4) FA by myself, Jon Wright and Rob Guinn.