Eye in the Sky: Little Brother Has Arrived.

•2017/03/09 • Leave a Comment

Recently, we’ve experienced phenomena that was originally just annoying. The second happening awakened us to a Park that’s no longer an assumed place of solitude and quiet. Yes, you guessed it, drones have arrived. Below is a short clip showing 2 incidents: the first one shows a couple flying a drone during a search and rescue event of a fallen visitor at Hall of Horrors, with the second event disturbing our privacy off trail. Though we were very close to the main trail to Barker Dam, Humanoids rarely walk these boulders save for an errant drone overhead.

Of course the park isn’t an assumed place of privacy or complete solitude, but the loud buzzing sound of a drone directly overhead destroys what little meaningful solitude existed. Even if that buzz is further away, it’s still the antithesis of nature.

And for the record, there is a small sign at the northwest entrance window saying that flying a drone is a $180 fine.


New Variations on Desert Teflon Boulder

•2017/02/07 • Leave a Comment

Manual Tupas added three variations to the existing lines on the Desert Teflon boulder:

The numbers correspond to the list below.

The numbers correspond to the list below.

Here are the combinations for the above numbers:

1. The V5 yabo into Desert Teflon. Desert Teflon Sit V5
2. Desert Teflon into the Unnamed V4. Desert Lace V5
3. The V5 yabo into Desert Lace. Leatherface V6

Thanks, Manual.

My personal take on these variations is that they offer the single boulderer more climbing without the need for a spotter or tons of pads. And since the desert offers reasonable distances between boulders, one can turn it into a circuit with some cardio/hiking in between. Locals know that the short problems are their circuit lines when they don’t want to focus on tall stuff and the mental game that requires. Both Squamish and Fontainebleau have tons of short lines that only require one pad. I’d like to see many more of these short lines included in future guidebooks for Josh with maybe suggestions for circuits.

Jeffy March Adds Another line and Cleans 3 More Projects

•2017/02/06 • 1 Comment

Jeffy march added a new arete line called Get With It, v2R, but I’m not sure where it is exactly. I’ll get more info as it becomes available. It’s a nice line for sure, and the R rating is fitting for many of the newer lines.

Jeffy Marsh on his new v2R problem called Get With It.

Jeffy March on his new v2R problem called Get With It.

Minor update: Jeffy also added an even lower and more right start to the classic Saturday Night Live dyno over by Real Hidden Valley. He thinks v5?

Update: Sorry Jeffy for the mispel.

New Lines Around Nicole Overhang Area (The Hang)

•2017/02/06 • 2 Comments

The formation just east of Planet X (and its collection of boulders) is called The Hang. On the south side is the very popular Nicole Overhang (NiO) problem, and Illicit Sweetie among others. This post includes a few past problems and one new line added just a few days ago by Jeffy March. I’ll use the NiO as a central point to reference where other problems are.


Continue reading ‘New Lines Around Nicole Overhang Area (The Hang)’

Updated Corrections list for 2nd Edition

•2017/01/28 • Leave a Comment

I’ve updated the current list of corrections to include the 2nd Edition of the guidebook (now available). Many items were fixed but some weren’t and a few others that weren’t fixed were my fault for not being very clear. Also, long overdue is the need to finish the Additions page since the 2nd Edition still doesn’t include various lines interspersed among established lines. We’ll be heading to Font for 2.5 months, so it’s a good time to work on it.

The update uses red for the 2nd Edition while the original wording remains if you still use the 1st Edition. Note: I’m NOT talking about Robert Miramontes’ first jtree guidebook published by K. Daniels & Associates but the first published by Wolverine. This is the one I assume most people have.



Kingpin (aka Iron Meteorite) Gets a Cousin: El Chapo

•2017/01/28 • Leave a Comment

Jeffy March established a new line/start of Iron Meteorite (aka Kingpin) to it’s left, out at the King Dome crag (this is the northernmost formation just past Hall of Horrors or the easternmost formation just past Planet X). He said it took some cleaning before sending and felt it was approximately v7. The line climbs to about the 2/3’s point then traverses right using the final exit moves of IM to finish. Nice work Jeffy… can’t wait to try it.

El Chapo, v7. He's at the point where he'll traverse right into the Iron Meteorite exit. (photo courtesy of Jeffy Marsh)

El Chapo, v7. He’s at the point where he’ll traverse right into the Iron Meteorite exit. (photo courtesy of Jeffy Marsh)

Blood Diamond Chipped?

•2017/01/23 • 6 Comments

Since hearing about Blood Diamond being easier, considerable easier (potentially V6?), we hiked out to see it first hand. Since we had originally found the problem and cleaned it, we had a good idea if it had naturally broken or was chipped. In the photos below, you can clearly see the original block that was intact. It wasn’t a loose “keystone” block either.

Here is a closeup of the original block that was busted out.

Here is a closeup of the original block that was busted out.

Continue reading ‘Blood Diamond Chipped?’