Liquid Chalk NOT for Climbing (and Commentary)

•2017/07/23 • Leave a Comment

Here is an American brand of chalk you can buy on Amazon that would raise serious eyebrows at the crag in the UK… and here too. It has resin in it. Also known as Pof in France, and used previously (still used today by a few) in Fontainebleau before chalk was introduced. Here in the States, I’d avoid this type of liquid chalk.

Check out the last ingredient. Pine Resin.

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Chipped, Twice At Black ?

•2017/07/08 • 2 Comments

What I’m referring to are holds that appear to be chipped. I say ‘appear’ not lightly as the evidence (dependent on the corroboration of an early ascensionist, which I believe to be sincere and accurate) points to chipping on Shoot The Moon (originally rated 10) and Dream Tiger (originally rated 9?). The condition of the 2 holds in question are today quite different from what they were originally, according to the same person who helped establish many of today’s hard lines at Black. My descriptions are based on their account.

Shoot The Moon crux crimp. Look natural?

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‘New’ problems east of Psyche

•2017/06/25 • 2 Comments

Just prior to our trip to Fontainebleau, earlier this year, we decided to check out boulders we’d seen a couple years ago. It was as I remembered but with limited potential. The one good thing we didn’t forget was the quality of the stone. It’s excellent and not like the typical course grain slopers of Hidden Valley campground and environs. And it’s not the same rock just without the slopers, its surface is almost entirely patina-like but also well formed edges and corners that aren’t the product of an obvious fracture. Fragments broke, but it exposed good stone as well.

Mousetrap, v0

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Black No. 36

•2017/03/30 • Leave a Comment

This is an awesome technical problem at Petit Bois, Black No. 39 36… the last in the Black circuit.

Jill on Black No. 39. That chalk patch left of her left knee is very important.

Nicole Overhang Has A Confirmed Sit (Yabo)

•2017/03/13 • 1 Comment

Update: Daniel upgraded the sit to v10.

Though most likely attempted many times, I’ve never heard of the Nicole Overhang Sit getting sent. Maybe it was originally done as a sit as indicated by its orginally harder rating of v8 or 9, but today the Nicole Overhang is known as a stand at v5 or 6. A few days ago Daniel Rudolf sent me his video of his send, rating it v9. If anyone knows of an earlier ascent of the sit please forward it to Robert Miramontes, the gB author. Thanks.


Congratulations! I’m psyched to see it finally confirmed.

Eye in the Sky: Little Brother Has Arrived.

•2017/03/09 • Leave a Comment

Recently, we’ve experienced phenomena that was originally just annoying. The second happening awakened us to a Park that’s no longer an assumed place of solitude and quiet. Yes, you guessed it, drones have arrived. Below is a short clip showing 2 incidents: the first one shows a couple flying a drone during a search and rescue event of a fallen visitor at Hall of Horrors, with the second event disturbing our privacy off trail. Though we were very close to the main trail to Barker Dam, Humanoids rarely walk these boulders save for an errant drone overhead.

Of course the park isn’t an assumed place of privacy or complete solitude, but the loud buzzing sound of a drone directly overhead destroys what little meaningful solitude existed. Even if that buzz is further away, it’s still the antithesis of nature.

And for the record, there is a small sign at the northwest entrance window saying that flying a drone is a $180 fine.

New Variations on Desert Teflon Boulder

•2017/02/07 • Leave a Comment

Manual Tupas added three variations to the existing lines on the Desert Teflon boulder:

The numbers correspond to the list below.

The numbers correspond to the list below.

Here are the combinations for the above numbers:

1. The V5 yabo into Desert Teflon. Desert Teflon Sit V5
2. Desert Teflon into the Unnamed V4. Desert Lace V5
3. The V5 yabo into Desert Lace. Leatherface V6

Thanks, Manual.

My personal take on these variations is that they offer the single boulderer more climbing without the need for a spotter or tons of pads. And since the desert offers reasonable distances between boulders, one can turn it into a circuit with some cardio/hiking in between. Locals know that the short problems are their circuit lines when they don’t want to focus on tall stuff and the mental game that requires. Both Squamish and Fontainebleau have tons of short lines that only require one pad. I’d like to see many more of these short lines included in future guidebooks for Josh with maybe suggestions for circuits.