Park Service has decided…

•2014/12/11 • 2 Comments

…to move the boulder back. This story hopefully will be closed soon.

the boulder in two worlds

•2014/12/06 • Leave a Comment

Here it is folks, an opportunity to indulge:

WRboulderThere is a shallow trough to the left that where I think the boulder originally sat. Photo courtesy Robert Miramontes.

White Rastafarian’s fall zone boulder

•2014/12/04 • 43 Comments

Update: This is a forum post comment from by johannsolo:

A friend was out there within a few days of it happening and I kept quite, but the cat is out of the bag
From a text message on 10/28:
Went out to climb on White Rasta someone or probably more than one person has maliciously “Pried” the boulder back out of original location ….this has happened since last week…since I’ve already climbed on it then… Looks like recently this happened….they didn’t even try and landscape just a pry and leave…looks like sh#t…I’ve fell before…u don’t hit it anyway?…some major “Noob” punk crankers have commited Blasphemy?… Pretty messed up… Post this up ..Johnny…what a travesty of honor?

I thought it relevant to update this post with the above information that puts the action in time context. Below is my original post:

After being told by an acquaintance while in Bishop that the boulder at the base of White Rastafarian had been moved, we visited over Thanksgiving to check it out. We arrived while a large party of boulderers were still trying the problem. Here are some images of the boulder’s location now.

You can see the boulder clearly on the far left lower corner of this image.

You can see the boulder clearly on the far left lower corner of this image.

Here is a reverse angle.

Here is a reverse angle.

Continue reading ‘White Rastafarian’s fall zone boulder’

Black Mtn, and a new low start…

•2014/11/14 • Leave a Comment

Anthony Tarascio added a low start to a standing v4 (pun intended) called Pride. He was hesitant to name it something new but ended up calling it Roar of Pride, v10 or 11.

The start of the low to Pride with Tarascio in the start position.

The start of the low to Pride with Tarascio in the start position.

This is his description:

“The stand start starts about 3 1/2 ft almost directly above my right hand on a small but good undercling and flat left hand edge. In the photo I am setting up for the first move which is a hard drive by out of an awkward drop knee to a ok right hand edge. Move feet out right, slap left hand to better incut, move feet higher and then a blind dyno with my left hand to a jug (second hold of stand start).

The starting holds are a horrible right hand crystal edge and very small but slightly incut crimp for the left[.]”

Sounds hard. Nice work Anthony! Pride is located around the west side of the mountain from the OK Corral area, and it sits facing mostly south. He’d tried it a few times between the end of the last season and the start of this season but sent it when the weather finally became favorable.

Adamantium low… and thoughts on FA behavior.

•2014/10/24 • 3 Comments

On Thursday, Matt Birch did Adamantium Low on his first try. It was impressive to watch him! I had done the problem in the past before the start crimp had broken, or so I’ve heard. I repeated the start move, feeling it was about the same. Jon Wright and I thought the original line was v9. Matt had just recently flashed a 10 in Toulumne that he felt was soft but thought this line was a bit harder… maybe 10? Does anyone know of any changes to Adamantium in recent years?

Adamantium, v9 or 10. Matt Birch on his first go send. This is the first move to a high horizontal.

Adamantium, v9 or 10. Matt Birch on his first go send. This is the first move to a high horizontal.

Continue reading ‘Adamantium low… and thoughts on FA behavior.’

A followup… Part 3: Efficiency

•2014/09/30 • Leave a Comment

I’ve decided to write this to better clarify what I mean by efficient movement, and because I referenced efficiency in the ST posts, it’s important to reduce any confusion; as a result, here is my take on the topic of efficiency. Part of the reason for my motivation arises from a simulator session while on plastic with some friends that resulted in a discussion on efficiency in movement stemming from a problem I set whose crux was more movement specific than strength/power specific.

Aparté, Apremont Sully.

Aparté, Apremont Sully.

Continue reading ‘A followup… Part 3: Efficiency’

Hawk at the park, and other sundry things

•2014/09/12 • Leave a Comment

Here’s a nice change up from climbing. It’s a short video of a Coopers Hawk feeding on it’s kill (or carrion, not sure but it looks fresh). This was shot a Hart Park in Orange, CA, an old school buildering crag with some of the nastiest vert traverse crimping I can remember. The hawk is oblivious to this history, of course, but some random guy walked up with the intention of seeing if the hawk would drop it’s kill, and it did, then the guy continued after the hawk. Bizarre. Anyways, here is the guy walking after the bird…

Coopers Hawk is to right of walking man...

Coopers Hawk is to right of walking man…

More images and a neato video of that Coopers Hawk after the break!

Continue reading ‘Hawk at the park, and other sundry things’


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