I reported that a new line exists on the Land of the Lost boulder starting from the Chorizo Tacos start hold and goes straight up. as the picture shows, Jill is holding a crimp with the left hand which broke a week ago by myself. that’s too bad as that line was probably the best line on the boulder. all is as it ever was.
at the end of last season, I had climbed the line through the crux, but botched the crossover move. conditions last year were ok leading up to that last try, but after that, days turned warm baking the holds in its southerly direction. on sunday, I wasn’t sure what to expect, knowing I was stronger at some things, but not sure about the crux dyno and hitting a three finger tips dish then doing the crossover. the topout itself is maybe a 4 for josh topouts. it was cold, 2o’s, so I just had to climb.
in the past we shot with two cameras on tripods. this time we did the same, but for unknown reasons I never considered the cold and what it does to batteries. as a result, the edit wasn’t what we wanted (another reason why batteries and flash cards should ALL be accessible from the side when on tripods. what a pain in the ass when manufacturers put them on the bottom. wtf?). I added footage from last season and let it roll. video after the break.
a fellow josh boulderer and first ascentionist, Noel, posted this youtube video of an impressive arete tucked away amongst formation boulders near Barker Dam. check out the video… and if your game, he says he doesn’t think there’s a second. as such, always be wary of anything loose. Noel mentioned a fair bit of cleaning was done; nevertheless, it’s a striking line.
the name Noel explains is “…a reference to the 2011 Batman story line that introduced DC comics’ reboot of all Batman related comics. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Court_of_Owls” his description of it’s location is as follows:
“The boulder itself is about 50-70 yards in on the main trail of Barker Dam from the parking lot. Using The Lion’s Cage boulder as a reference, walk the trail until the Lion’s Cage boulder is exactly at your 3PM, then look directly to your 1PM. Follow a thinner and less obvious social trail that leads up and in between the first and second conglomerations to your right (roughly 15-20 yds off the main trail). At that point you should not be anywhere near the Equinox Marker, the Painted Lady and the closed off problems of that area. If you are close to that or even the Native Arete, you missed the social trail. You may also have to squeeze past a couple of boulders as the social trail thins out a bit between the conglomerations. You can see the squeeze part in the lower left of the video, as well as the main trail from atop the adjacent boulder (where the camera was placed).”
Thanks for the lowdown, Noel.
a 2 short videos of the problems Dream Sequence Direct and the short v2 we added to the right at the end of the blog post here. it, Dream Sequence Direct, should add a bit of clarity to an unclear set of problems. the v2 is just more climbings if you’re there.
our most recent return was on saturday/sunday during the turkey day gorging. our visit was accompanied by Linh Nguyen, the Product Line Manager at Evolv, a positive new force for shoe design and development. on sunday, we met up with Richard Boyle, so he could take us to his project near the Miledi boulder. it’s a stellar line and goes at v5 or 6.
back around 2001, I think, I did this problem at ryan campground’s equestrian campsites back when a bench I climbed next to was still a wooden and steel type chained to the ground (I think that was how I remember they anchored them). because another problem around to the right, on the west face, is the Chipped Bulge, it seemed logical to call this the Unchipped Bulge, v5? (I called it a 6 in the video), as it’s not chipped. I think the moves are cool, but that’s just me. check it out below as I climbed it last season over a new concrete bench.
as the title says, the trip wasn’t the best in terms of weather. and as the photos shows, it ain’t the northwest any more. we are back in josh, at home, comfortable and right back at it working on stuff. below is a new problem called Sense Offender, not so much because the video, past the break, shows me offending the style gods oh so much (check out the hair), but because the problem is so atypical of josh problems. it’s simple, overhanging, crimpy, and an easy topout. enjoy.