Currently camping…

•2014/04/02 • Leave a Comment

We are currently camping until this saturday when we move into another unit, but not part of the Gite system. We found this place using AirBNB. It’s slightly more than the place in Boutigny-sur-Essone, but it also comes with wifi and it’s in Perthes en Gâtinais.

Sully and straight: Aprémont

•2014/04/02 • Leave a Comment

Here are some shots of problems from a few weeks ago that we found to be really enjoyable. While some were ambiguous others were aesthetic. The forest was mostly quiet. One pair passed through, a few others walked the main trail through the crag. There could have been more breeze, the sun was not strong. The crag, Aprémont Sully, was peaceful.

An unknown easy problem  left of  . Full value start matched at left heel.

An unknown easy problem left of an Unnamed 5+. Full value start matched at left heel.

Continue reading ‘Sully and straight: Aprémont’

Hotel & Méson options for climbers

•2014/03/27 • Leave a Comment
At the bottom of the photo is the hotel with road in front.

At the bottom of the photo (with road in front) is the hotel .

As part of our brief stay in Spain, we wanted to check out Albarracin,  a fortress village along the Guadalaviar River in the Sierra de Albarracín Mountains in the Aragon region. With 4.5 days there as a stopover/recon trip on our way from Madrid to France, we decided to hotel it and eat out most nights; that included 3 nights at the Hotel el Gallo, 1 night at the hotel Parada del Carmen, and twice dinner at the downstairs restaurant Méson del Gallo. Both the Hotel el Gallo and downstairs restaurant Méson del Gallo cater to climbers in different ways. Continue reading ‘Hotel & Méson options for climbers’

Imagine if Albuquerque cops policed the font forest.

•2014/03/27 • Leave a Comment

Just imagine if these goons patrolled the font forest. We’d have tons of climbers dead that tried to van camp illegally in the various parking areas. Watch this video here. You can watch the cops start a conflict by firing off a flash bang grenade (after first agreeing to allow the dude to walk down with his stuff) then finish off the confrontation with bullets. It’s so f*^ked up, especially if you consider that many homeless persons are also not mentally healthy and can’t get adequate help. My brother was one of them. F*@k you Albuquerque and the POHleece! You’re training gun-toting goons to resort to shooting because their so fucking scared! Watch the video; it’s so obvious these cops are just scared of a dude with knives. What cowards!

Here’s a nice photo to change the mood:

A peaceful view.

A peaceful view.

Albarracin bouldering shots.

•2014/03/26 • Leave a Comment

Here are a few shots of bouldering in Albarracin.

Spider Pig, 6c, Arrastradero.

Spider Pig, 6c, Arrastradero.

Al Capitán Cavernicola, 7b, Arrastradero. Jill working moves.

Al Capitán Cavernicola, 7b, Arrastradero. Jill working moves.

Continue reading ‘Albarracin bouldering shots.’

60′s F/15-20º C for another week… plus 95.2 problems

•2014/03/09 • Leave a Comment

As expected, we’re looking at a fair number of clear days, but the temps are consistently in the 60′s (or high teens metric). Today was supposed to be the warmest, about 20º C, then tapering off over the next week. It’s warm mainly midday, and today was a rest/hike day, so tomorrow should be about shade problems only.

If it were stone, it's a sweet but juggy overhanging arete.

If it were stone, it’s a sweet but juggy overhanging arete.

Continue reading ’60′s F/15-20º C for another week… plus 95.2 problems’

LA to Madrid via Moscow

•2014/03/06 • Leave a Comment

This post is going back in time a bit. It’s about our arrival in Madrid via Moscow. yes, Moscow… do you already see the punch line?

Seriously, besides the novelty, a landing cam? I guess it’s neat to know that when the gear fails, and the cam squishes into the pavement, we know we are f&@ked.

Seriously, besides the novelty, a landing cam? I guess it’s neat to know that when the gear fails, and the cam squishes into the pavement, we know we are f&@ked.

Continue reading ‘LA to Madrid via Moscow’

 
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