Gateway West Additions, GTR

Back in 2019 we ventured back to the Gateway area to warmup for when Jill was projecting Cryptic Tips, at the Tips Be Gone boulder several hundred meters WSW along an obvious shallow dry wash. In the course of multiple trips, she established 2 new sit starts to a previous stand I’d done in 2010.

Jill at the stand start to Chrysopoeia originally done in 2010.

Cool reach.

The boulder didn’t have a name, but the problem Homunculus, I previously blogged about is here. In that post, I mentioned the Chrysopoeia stand. Jill added both a right and left sit start. The rock is good but the general surface character of the boulder on this line has a lot of texture. Here are the 2 starts:

Chrysopoeia Left (sit). Maybe a v5 or 6? it’s one move…

It’s a decently big lockoff.

The left sit is punchy. I wasn’t able to do the first move, but when Jill did it, she said it felt easy. Then she tried to repeat it as her final warmup for Cryptic Tips and said it felt hard! The right sit start is also difficult and begins matched on a long but bad sloping crimp.

Chrysopoeia Right (sit) begins matched then traverses left to the stand start.

Jill after the initial start move.

The moves require a lot of body control while feeling awkward. Needless to say, it’s very sustained and thrutchy. She called it a v7. I find it pretty hard compared to another v7 traverse The Sleeping Master, at Ryan campgound.

This topout can also exit slightly left.

Here is a vid of the FA:

~ by r. mulligan on 2021/07/18.

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