Correct? Start To Dodging Bullets (updated)

Video still with Farbman on first move.

Update: Because of assumed accuracy of sends recorded in video, there has been confusion as to the correct v9 start of Dodging Bullets. Currently via video, many use a long incut rail that faces to the right. This start has been graded lower than 9. Others start using a lower left sidepull undercling and a right undercling and have accepted this as v9. The video that was submitted by Richard Farbman shows this start. It is my opinion that the video shows the correct 9 start. My apologies for not addressing this sooner as I wasn’t aware of how the original ascent by Chris Lindner was done. I’ve reached out to Chris via an older email but haven’t heard back.

Sidenote: We here at JTB blog recommend not trusting video ascents for correctness of bouldering lines. There is often ambiguity with guidebook descriptions, and it’s, though unfortunate, each person’s obligation to figure out the correct parameters if they claim ascents. Of course, just climbing is the real joy, but since there are first ascents, repeats of established lines, by default, beg to follow the original style of Start and End. How one gets from the start to the end is up to each person. Also, for those doing sit or low starts, the rule for shorter persons is to pad up until they reach the holds but not overpad to gain an advantage in body position (this goes for taller folks too).

Original post with corrections: Richard Farbman added a lower (correct) start to Dodging Bullets ( he’s calling it Dodge This) that he’s called a 10; below is the video of the ascent. The climb is on the east side of Geology Tour Road on the north end of the Lechlinski Crack formation, which is the last major formation on the east side. A gB photo shows an arrow pointing to the right side of a big boulder. The climb is on that big boulder but on the back left side.  Y2K is on the west side of the road.

I think this start is an excellent addition that needed to be done.

Nice work regardless, Richard. Sorry for the post corrections. Thanks for the submission.

~ by r. mulligan on 2021/03/16.

8 Responses to “Correct? Start To Dodging Bullets (updated)”

  1. I had to go check this boulder out today after a friend claimed his first V9 and seeing some videos about the line.

    The gB says “Yabo (sit) start under the roof, at sidepull rail, power to the lip, and head left, joining Blue Pull for its finish. 16 ft tall.”

    The V9 start people have been posting on YouTube off a match on the big incut gaston hold feels about V4/V5 (maybe call it Dodging Pellets?). My friend did it 3rd try on a rest day.. and has not climbed any V9s or V8s yet.. This video looks like the true V9 sit start IMO and not a “new” lower start to an old problem…

  2. Where does the original line start? I can’t tell what the difference is between the original line and the low start

    • Good question. RTM didn’t indicate start holds. My only knowledge of it is when my friend, Charlie, did it only to discover it was already done by Chris. If the correct start, Chris’ start, is from the undercling/sidepull then I’ll update the post. Thank you for calling attention to it.

      • Thanks for the info. I ask because my friend and I did the climb years ago from what seems to be the same start in the video. Over the years I’ve hear from people that the climb feels easy for the grade but I always disagreed so maybe that is why

        • Chris Lindner wasn’t known for putting up soft problems, so I’m inclined to agree with you that that is the 9. I haven’t done the problem, but I tried it from that low point thinking it’s mainly one hard move. A 9 makes sense. Did you feel like it was a 9 from that low start?

          I’ll reach out to Chris via an old email I have.

        • I don’t remember thinking that v9 was out of the realm of possibility

  3. LOL is that mickey spotting?

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