Clarification On Blackfeet, The Underground.

I came across this video on Youtube that dates from May 13, 2015. In it, the ascentionist claims a send of Blackfeet. Having watched the original FA by Fred Nicole, I know that the start is on the farthest back set of crimps where climber has his right foot. When Nicole did the line, he climbed it with bare feet to get his big toe into two pockets, one for his right foot (start) then one for his left foot (move to rail).

Needless to say, this is another example of poor gB descriptions that don’t define the true nature of such a hard line:

“Yabo start under the roof on a large flake. Punch out to a juggy rail and finish Sketch. 16 ft. tall.”

The description implies it’s one hard move. It’s actually two hard moves plus the transition/setup to do the long reach to the rail. FTR, I don’t fault the climber as his start is a reasonable interpretation of the vague description.

 

~ by r. mulligan on 2021/02/11.