Broken Hold, Same Climb

Saxwing on the DL has a long lieback rail at the start. The upper half of the rail broke off a year or so ago, but I’ve only recently reclimbed the line. I never knew the gB rating (v5), but the line now feels like a v5. The old line felt more like a 4. The climb is still an excellent line.

This is the first move after initially matching at right hand. There’s a small crimp tip visible just right of Jill’s head. The setup uses this edge.

Using a heel hook, the second move is also a big reach, but I don’t think it’s reachy as she’s 5’4″

I’m setting up the heel hook. The finish is still the same.

 

~ by r. mulligan on 2020/02/10.