The Budweiser Traverse, Bud Light and Your Habenula

When Matt Beebe sent Tips Begone, he established the first line on that namesake boulder. His next ascent was the traverse exiting left, but that one specifically involved Budweiser, the beer. According to a friend who asked Matt recently, he had named the traverse The Budweiser Traverse, mainly because it involved lots of Budweiser. I always wondered if the traverse was really just called a traverse. It has its own crux one move left from Tips and it can be argued that it’s not a traverse at all but a left exit of the Tips start.

Final moves on the Budweiser traverse.

The crux sequence on Budweiser is a good example of structural tension and leveraging capacity sustained during a deadpoint. The foot is sufficiently bad that the body needs to be tracking along a 30+ degree lever, in order to smedge/edge on the foothold. I find this move to be a good indicator of my turnout control, levering strength, pulling ability and the nuanced timing to keep my left foot on; if off, then it indicates I can pull and push but not necessarily well coordinated.

Crux on the Budweiser traverse.

A right start extension called Cryptic Tips has its own sequence of eccentric tension moves requiring good body plane tracking close to the wall while in turnout. The start is incorrectly labeled in the gB as beginning from a jug but in fact starts from a lower horizontal crimp rail. The start feet are on the same angled dyke where both hands start for Tips. The lower crimp start is worthy and is, in fact, how the original FA was done. Here is Jill sending (sorry for the poor focus of the video):

This line was not Jill’s strength, and maybe that’s why she felt the climb was as hard or harder than any of her other 10’s including Theatre of the Absurd* in Hueco Tanks. She typically doesn’t do well on dynos, and there are two of them. The climb is 22 moves in total before the mantel, and long climbs are another of her weaknesses. Only the start moves suit her strengths, but the eccentric move before the first dyno was also difficult for her and some reaches on the problem are close to her maximum extension. Needless to say, it was a good line for her to do; she learned fast and almost sent before we went to Fontainebleau this year (Feb.-Mar.). With adequate conditions, she was able to do it after our return in April before the weather became too hot.

I added a problem behind Tips Begone, on a lone boulder tucked into the corner with its slab face facing the Tips boulder. It begins where the foundation rock (that’s the “ground” for the Tips boulder) meets sand west (or left if facing Tips) in the corridor. Aptly called the Corner boulder, you pass it on your left going west. Stepping off the boulder over the sand is how I started the problem. At or above face height is a left sloping gaston “crimp” and a right slightly lower dimple hold of crystals (very important), a high foot in a divot and a very high step takes you onto a slab. The slab is moderate and technical. I called it The Habenula, a v4 or 5. The first move is the business, but the slab is the icing for sure at maybe 5.9? Do you have any climbing styles that are an aversion to your senses?

The Habenula. Photo shows the start hands. I stepped off the pad where it sits partially on the ground stone.

Almost done with the start.

The last move on the slab.

On the far left side of the Corner boulder, is a NOT recommended one move grainy sloper problem. I don’t remember how it goes, and that’s fine.

Another line was added that starts at seemingly two arbitrary compression crimps below the Budweiser traverse’s high rail. It starts directly below a good section of the sloping crimp traverse just before the jug section. The poor foot used for the traverse crux is just right of the foot used for this problem. Right hand is sorta flat and nominally incut, left is flat and distinctly angled. This makes one want to go right up, while the holds work better to go left up to a decent right facing divot. It’s called Bud Light and is probably a 5. The direct finish exits on the v8 direct finish of the Budweiser (Tips Begone) traverse, and goes at v6. In all honesty, I don’t know if the direct finish actually makes the Budweiser traverse a full grade harder. It’s just harder than the traverse topout or the Tips Begone topout.

Bud Light has the same basic move as the other cruxes on this boulder: Budweiser, Holds Begone and Tips Begone all move with the left hand. Add a fifth, a hard project, that does a super hard left hand reach, and you have a theme going here.

Start for Bud Light. Hold at the right edge of frame is the crimp for the crux deadpoint on the Budweiser traverse.

Here is the video of the FA of Bud Light, finishing direct.


*In the past, climbers dropped off at the jug (Fred Nicole didn’t top out on the FA, despite the highball finish/stand start already having been established – and described in the first-ever Hueco guidebook – as a 5.11 face climb). These days it’s cleaned up substantially and more climbers are topping it out.

~ by r. mulligan on 2019/05/12.

2 Responses to “The Budweiser Traverse, Bud Light and Your Habenula”

  1. Nice work, who knew there were all those other problems right in front of our face.

    • There’s one last obvious line but very very hard. It takes the Holds Begone right hand with the left and the go out further right to a micro crimp, lock to a high edge.

Leave a Reply

Please log in using one of these methods to post your comment: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Google photo

You are commenting using your Google account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.

%d bloggers like this: