False Blockhead chipped?

False Blockhead has been an established problem for decades. The top move is off a sloper (From the gB: “…chuck big for a sloper….”) that I’ve used countless times, but this last Friday, we warmed up on it for a crimp project near Jumbo. After grabbing that “sloper” I immediately felt something wasn’t right– it was incut.

Its incut profile is obvious left of the index finger.

Here is the same image without a hand for comparison.

Another view without the hand.

It’s hard to believe someone would chip this, but it is easy to access from the top. This area gets a lot of traffic from the Hidden Valley campground across the road; another consequence of this traffic is the trash.

As a former smoker who went out of his way to not throw out the butts, this really irks me. Other items include finger tape and some foil.

~ by r. mulligan on 2019/05/12.

4 Responses to “False Blockhead chipped?”

  1. i think its chipped too, just went to it last weekend to warm up and was like “why is this a jug now?”

    • Yeah, it’s really sad cause the move off the sloper was actually fun. Now it’s just a safe move to the top (aka gym climbing finish).

  2. It’s always possible a piece could have broken off. The knob on Methane broke off last year; enough wear and tear. Though on the cynical side, most of these gym noobs come to JTree, can’t do a V1 then need to mentally go to their “safe space”, then come back with a small hammer or screw driver and there you have a new gym hold for V1’ers. =^D

    • That’s a possibility, but it’s not just a crystal as it’s a bunch of crystals that are gone. Egos are a very compelling motivational force!

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