2 New Problems at the Hound Rocks.

I’ve added 2 new lines, both moderates to the area west of Hound Rocks. One line is on the same boulder as The Hungry Rabbit Jumps (formerly Exit Through The Gift Shop),  called Josephine, v5 or 6.

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The Hungry Rabbit Jumps, v6?, sit starts on a boulder.

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This is the crux move and is a bit reachy.

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Moderate compression moves pictured gets you to the exit section.

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Here I’m reaching the last good crimp before a sidepull jug just below the summit. The boulder is tall, but you climb it minus 4 feet off the start. From that crimp I’ve reached there’s another 4 feet of climbing.

The second line is on the same boulder but on the opposite corner as Mind Palace, and it’s called The Twisted Lip North By Northwest, v4 or 5. It starts just right of Northeast Corner, v3,  matched on a small sloping L crimp tucked under a small overhang. The first move is cruxy for tall folks (with a high dab potential), while the upper section might be hard for a short person. We also finished the left exit to Northeast Corner that traverses left from the corner exiting up at a large incut side flake on the slab. It’s called South By Southwest, v4 (not pictured).

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Start position we used on The Twisted Lip North By Northwest, v4?

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Last hard crimp move before reaching the summit sloper lip.

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The ever-present oak tree.

The exit of The Twisted Lip North By Northwest is sandwiched by the oak tree branches visible in the above photo, so you have to remain close to the rock when you traverse right to exit. Exiting straight up requires climbing into and through the tree.

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Another view of the start.

We added a new lower start to a short problem on the south-most boulder of 3 where the north-most boulder has Mind Palace (all 3 boulders touch each other). I thought I included it in the Hound Rocks post previously but didn’t. It starts with feet on another boulder while you side-pull slopers to elevate off the sit start. It’s called Mindful, v4. In Font, there are a few of these types of problems that, being from the states, I’ve never really considered, but the fact is it works well for problems that have a defined but limited start arrangement.

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Sit start viewed from the backside. Jill is shorter and grabs just under my left hand. The right hand is at the lower corner.

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Reaching up to the sloper rail.

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After the start, the crux is setting up for a long right hand move.

In the above video, the boulder to the left is the middle boulder of 3 to the Mind Palace boulder.

 

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~ by r. mulligan on 2018/01/14.

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