Flight Attendant Sit Clarification

After becoming aware of what others are calling the sit/yabo start to Flight Attendant, I’ve decided to write this so others will know what the original FA start was.

This is the original start for the sit.

It’s no fault of climbers not knowing what the sit start is. It’s the gB author’s responsibility to clarify this. It’s important at times because difficulty can be quite different with different starts. In this case some climbers use the crimp about .5 meters to the right of Jill’s right hand (with the left hand on that right hand crimp). Starting as per the photo above felt noticeably harder to me than starting to the right for 2 reasons: first, the first move is noticeably harder because it’s much steeper with the foothold far away, and second because after making the first move, the right hand is in the way from getting onto a good foot while at the same time being too far from the initial foot to use again.¬†This forces one to high step to the good foot just right of Jill’s right elbow then bumping to the far right crimp before getting set up to reach the bad pinch.

With a right start, it felt like a v2 or 3 move to the second hold then a direct step-up or foot switch to go to the bad pinch.

It’s also worth noting that the original lower left start hold broke some time ago (now use the crimp further to the left–see photo below). This original left hand start hold was also the key foot used to make the move off the bad pinch. And, because after reaching the bad pinch, the left hand is still on a low horizontal crimp making it really hard to use any foot other than flagging or super high stepping up to the right hand start crimp… or pogoing with the left foot. Harder than 7? I don’t think so, but I would say it’s easier with the right start and more like a 6.

Here is the original start. The red circle is the broken foot/start hold.

The good thing is there are now two starts: v7 left and v6?? right.

For the record, the original stand, to my knowledge, started with the right hand on the bad pinch and left wherever you can place it. For most people, this means using a head high left hand sidepull below the good sidepull. Remember, many of these moderates were done without a crashpad.


~ by r. mulligan on 2017/11/13.

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