Blockhead Revisited

The newest edition of the JT guidebook (2nd Wolverine Edition) has incorrect numbering for the problems on the Blockhead boulder, even though the previous 2 editions (1st Wolverine/1st KDpublishing) had the numbers correct. The copy is correct (meaning nothing was changed), but the photo is now incorrect. Ugh. Regardless, Jill added the linkup from the sit start of Nitwit exiting on False Blockhead, called Nitwit Head, v6. If anyone had done this prior to January 29, 2017, let Robert or this blog know, so he can accurately establish the historicity of JT bouldering.

Start position for Jill. Basically being matched on the low crimps is the yabo start.

We both realize others may have done this, but I personally found the start to be awkward for my height (5’10.5″) because of feet. As you can see in the photo, she uses a very high heel hook which I found difficult, to say the least. There’s another small edge much lower making me really extended for the reach. This made it feel very powerful to do either way. Ironically, Jill found my version going from left to right (Blockwit) to be extended for her for the crux, so the 2 versions balance out well.

The move is decently long. She bumped to this position from a lower crimp at her wrist.

The move up to finish on False Blockhead has slightly different hand positions compared to the False Blockhead yabo start.

In the above shot, she moves up to the high gaston from that right crimp. When we do the sit to False Blockhead, we grab right hand first to the sidepull/pinch above her right hand with the thumb on that crimp her left hand is on.

Regarding the gB photo mistake, #33 is erroneously on Nitwitsit, and Nitwitsit (#35) is overlaid on the sit for Blockwit (#33). I’m surprised Robert would make this mistake, so we are assuming it’s a Wolverine error.

On a side note, is it us or do you think that Wolverine’s gBs are poorly bound? Here is our 1st edition W book:

Here is the condition of our previous gB.

 

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~ by r. mulligan on 2017/07/23.

4 Responses to “Blockhead Revisited”

  1. Most new books have total garbage binding and paper. I feel that when color photos hit the scene everything went out the window as the publisher could hide behind the aesthetic of the book sitting on a shelf. I used my Squamish guide for 8ish days and it was already showing signs of wear, to be fair I am not the kindest user. The same could be said for all the Wolverine guides I own or have seen.

    I like the “field guide” feel of Roberts original guide. IIRC KD had to convince RM of the necessity of the binding being burly.

    • Agreed. The bindings for the Fontainebleau guides 5+6 and 7+8 are quite good. I think it’s just priorities: profit or quality.

  2. Robert mentioned to be a few years back that both variations had been done…i.e start at False Blockhead Sit, then move right and finish Nitwitsit, AND start Nitwitsit then move left and finish False Blockhead Sit.

    Funny though; he said YOU were the one who put them up?! hehe so either he got the FAist wrong or you totally forgot you did these already? lol~

    • I did both the False Blockhead sit and the Blockwit (left to right variant), and Robert does give me credit for it. It’s odd then that the right to left variant wasn’t in the gB if he mentioned it had been done previously because it’s not in the 2nd edition that came out this last winter. That was the motivation to have that variant done because we both assumed it most likely had been done.

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