New Lines Around Nicole Overhang Area (The Hang)

The formation just east of Planet X (and its collection of boulders) is called The Hang. On the south side is the very popular Nicole Overhang (NiO) problem, and Illicit Sweetie among others. This post includes a few past problems and one new line added just a few days ago by Jeffy March. I’ll use the NiO as a central point to reference where other problems are.

 

This map points to the locations of each group of problems. Some of them were done over 2 decades ago while one was done a few days ago.

1-nicole overhang, 2-mantel block, 3-copernican shelf, 4-backside NiO, 5-hafling boulder, 6-brady slab

1-nicole overhang, 2-mantel block, 3-copernican shelf, 4-backside NiO, 5-halfling boulder, 6-brady slab

Label #1 resides at Nicole Overhang. To its left is a problem called Hammer Toss that’s a run/jump off that boulder left of NiO. Instead of doing the run/jump, I added 2 lines both off that boulder. On the left is the Hammer Pull starting from a high horizontal and a lower sloper. Establish a hang, or just get off the lower boulder, and go left up jugs, v2 or 3. Starting on the same boulder but hanging a the lower lip, center right, using a poor sloper and poor crimp, climb left along the arete to the summit, Hang ‘Em High, v6 or 7.

 

Labeled as #2 is a block boulder with another boulder overhanging the block boulder just behind NiO.

This wall is visible if you look behind and to the right of Nicole Overhang.

This wall is visible if you look behind and to the right of Nicole Overhang.

In the above photo are 5 numbers. Starting at #1 to #3 is: Left Slab Mantel, v2, Center Slab Mantel v0, Right slab Mantel v0. #4 is True Grits, v4 and #5 is the approach slab at 5.4 or something. True Grits is a very good problem with the crux being the topout mantel/rollover. It starts low as a sit matched on an obvious multi-faceted hold.

Labeled as #3 is the Copernicus boulder. This boulder is directly right of NiO.

Copernican Principle, v3. Starts matched at Jill's right heel.

Copernican Principle, v3. Starts matched at Jill’s right heel.

The Copernican Principle is very good. Though short, it’s super technical and fun. In the same photo above, the left sun-lit arete is Jeffy Marsh’s new line called Crumbles Cookies, v4 or 5.

Label #4 is the backside of the NiO boulder where a tall but grainy line was climbed by Mike Brady (or was done earlier) called Against The Grain, v2 or 3.

Labeled #5 is the Halfling boulder. When you walk from the Nio boulder to Illicit Sweetie, on the right side is the corner of the Halfling boulder (On your left side of the trail is The Nicola mantel.) There’s a short crimp line called Orange Peel, v0. And the problem that traverses into The Halfling that the gB calls unnamed is called, The Sideling, v2, not v3/4. Something I did quite a while ago .

In the bottom right corner of the top photo is the last area, labeled #6. This is a slab Mike Brady put up in 2010 nestled into the formation’s south side west of NiO.

Mike Brady on the Brady Slab, v-easy. The line follows the left arete.

Mike Brady on the Brady Slab, v-easy. The line follows the left arete.

The last area (not on the top overview image) is the Cadomai boulder. The gB says it’s …”100 yards to the east of the Hang.” If you were at NiO, at the formation directly out southeast of you (towards Saddle Rocks) sits this small cluster of boulders/micro formation. Two established lines, Damo’s Overhang and Snaggletooth are found on a low but overhanging corner of rock created by 2 “plates” of stone against the main boulder. The gB (either edition) shows the boulder well. Left of the established problems is a right-facing arete created by the left-most block of the “plates.” Jill put up a crimpy line from the sit called aptly Carpenter’s Arete, v6. If you did Damo’s Overhang following the easiest line possible, it would be 5.8 (instead of v0) by climbing both “plates.” In other words, climb directly above the sit start on jugs.

Below are some images of the above problems:

The photo sucks but it shows the arete well. This is the final crux with the sit starting somewhere near her right foot matched on thin crimps.

Carpenter’s Arete, v6. The photo sucks but it shows the arete well. This is the final crux with the sit starting somewhere near her right foot matched on thin crimps.

After the first move. Left hand was below the right hand, I think.

After the first move. Left hand was below the right hand, I think.

Copernican Principle, v3. Starting matched on where the left heel is, it takes a big move right to sloping crimp then this mantel.

Copernican Principle, v3. Starting matched on where the left heel is, it takes a big move right to sloping crimp then this mantel.

Robert Wu about to match heel to hand.

Robert Wu about to match heel to hand.

Damo's Slot, 5.8. If you just climbed straight up from that jug below Jill's right foot, this might be what you will do... instead of following the topo line drawn in the gB. It didn't feel v0 as Damo's Overhang might be.

Damo’s Slot, 5.8. If you just climbed straight up from that jug below Jill’s right foot, this might be what you will do… instead of following the topo line drawn in the gB. It didn’t feel v0 as Damo’s Overhang might be.

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~ by r. mulligan on 2017/02/06.

2 Responses to “New Lines Around Nicole Overhang Area (The Hang)”

  1. Awesome!! I love that this info is seeing the light of day! Was the Brady Slab in 2010? I feel like that was from when I still lived down there, but my sense of time is horrible. A plea to whom ever may read this, go climb Against The Grain! I swear it will clean up 🙂

    • I almost forgot about these thinking I had mentioned them previously. After reviewing the new guidebook I realized I hadn’t. Was hoping for some more photos of problems but those shots might have been on the lost SD card from Squamish.

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