Not New Area, But New for Us: Hound Rocks

From Quails Springs (Trashcan Rock) lies Hound Rocks, approx. SSW, sitting just before the hillside with the White Cliffs of Dover to the south. The group of boulders continue up behind Hound Rocks onto the hillside (and off in the distance). I’m pretty sure this area was partially developed by recent past transient locals.

Anyways, we added 2 new lines, one low at the base of the main hillside, and the other facing downhill sandwiched between itself and the face the fell off over, creating a series of slanting flat sidepulls and a second shelfed landing before heading out to an easy but unprotectable slab (it’s over a tree).

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Exit Through the gift Shop, v5, starts in the shadow below the lip of the other boulder.The exit is pretty chill. That horn was grainy but otherwise seemed solid.

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The line starts on the flat hold matched where Jill’s left hand is.

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I only noticed the other boulder if I had balance issues, which is crux of the lower section.

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This is the upper crux for a shorter climber, the beta was what I originally would work. The foot is big, angled and slightly sloping and the hand is quite sloping. A taller climber can avoid this sequence.

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This line is really good, and quite safe for the length and height one gains. The very top flake is loose in areas and we grabbed the left side… that’s why Jill is oriented the way she is.

The second line was sent first, on a previous trip to this area, and it’s called the Mind Palace, v7. It’s low, but the climbing is really good and reasonably steep.

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The Mind Palace, v7, starts with the right hand below the left along the arete edge on a slight indent. The left is a cool triangle sloping pinch. Big move.

The line continues along the stepped hanging arete; no cutting loose allowed but truth is the holds are pretty poor. My right hand is on the best hold till the slab part.

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This is the start of the crux sequence until you power out of an undercling, 2 moves higher.

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Different angle of the same move in the above photo.

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The last 2 moves before this are left to your imagination, but I think it’s pretty obvious from these 2 shots.

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The slab is finally reached, and 3 more moves before enjoying it’s benefits.

I added one more line to the left of The Mind Palace, called Elementary, v3? It’s morpho, I think but very clean. It starts matched anywhere on a big right sidepull at shoulder height (with a pad). Sloping and small feet take you long to a high crimp then up.

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A series of angled crack edges on the steep slab take you to the summit. The start is slightly overhanging.

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The next edge is at the top of the dark spot above her left hand. These are the only shots I have of it. Just to my right in the photo is the topout of The Mind Palace.

These two lines are on the west side of the boulder, but on the northeast corner is a short but good line previously done (we called it the Northeast Corner, but I’m sure that name is already taken somewhere in the park). It’s about a 3 or 4 doing a right exit (along the north face of the boulder). A left exit is noticeably harder and moves around to the east face of the boulder, while another line just right of the right exit line, on the north face, looks good and awaits to be done. It is pretty thin and finishes into the tree above to avoid the most of the tree. A right exit that moves all the way around to the west side of the boulder would be another good option.

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This is Northeast Corner problem and how we started it… very little in the way of feet. The left exit goes up just left of and on the east face of the boulder.

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I continue right exiting just right of where the shadow is above.

Barely visible to the right of me, in the shadow just above the light low lying rock is the start with an exit behind those branches covering the top.

This next boulder was our warmup boulder. Some of the rock is crumbly, so we just avoided it as best as possible. Most of the rock is solid. The variations are immense, so I drew them in… all of the them!

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Left start: left exit: blue has one variation. Left start: direct: green has one start variation with 2 exits (straight or left). right start: left exit: orange has two exits (left or center left).

The easiest line is maybe v0 with the hardest line (direct from the left start) being a v3. There’s another variation that goes from the Orange start to the Blue finish, but I don’t remember how hard it is.

This area has been developed previously, so I’ll follow up on what has been done while including any other lines we’ll do.

 

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~ by r. mulligan on 2016/09/15.

2 Responses to “Not New Area, But New for Us: Hound Rocks”

  1. Nice man!! Gift Shop looks fun~

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