Ashima Shiraishi on Tierre de Sienne

Here is a simple edit of Ashima sending in Hueco over Thanksgiving using her send footage. She sent on her first day using tape on the left index finger. It only took a handful of tries before her finger split because she uses a smaller edge down and left of the main thin crimp that others use. The right side of that edge, which is slightly down-sloping, has a micro notch right where she places her index tip.

Here’s a still of her trying the crux earlier on the first day:

Ashima Shiraishi attempting the crux on Tierre de Sienne.

Ashima Shiraishi attempting the crux on Tierre de Sienne.

After she sent Tierre, she quickly worked the moves on the lower part with a linkup to the crux. Day 1 done. Terremer starts at Diaphanous Sea and does the first 2 moves then moves left to meet up with Tierre. The start of Diaphanous Sea has apparently gotten easier as the (previously 3rd) hold is now quite good. I remember, albiet from a long time ago, that the crimp wasn’t demostrably incut outside of having a leading edge. Now it actually has a recess for several fingers. I also remember the beta being a left to a horizontal (which now is a defacto foot hold) then right to the crimp in question. Now climbers just cross right straight to it from the start, hands crossed.

Diaphanous Sea was a side show for her. It took about 3 or 4 tries to do the crux, a pogo. Then she sent first effort after that.

I’d say she climbed the start of Terremer into Tierre at least 15 or so times, but she mostly tried to dial in the crux throw, over and over, to no avail. The tape was a major factor as well as skin by the 4th day on out of 5. Regardless, it was an impressive show of skill and focus. Tape… can’t live without it, can hang with it.

5 out of 6 days on. Day 2 was on Esperanza due to rain followed by 3rd day on at Terremer, then rest. Here are a few other images:

Ashima Shiraishi working out a foot sequence for after the first big reach.

Esperanza in the Martini cave. Ashima Shiraishi working out a foot sequence for after the first big reach. Though not intended, the bystander makes for a dynamic interplay with the subject.

Shiraishi warming up on Big Iron on His Hip.

Shiraishi warming up on Big Iron on His Hip, the finish to Martini Right.

Shiraishi throwing with the left, adding more moves to the sequence.

Shiraishi throwing with the left, which invariably adds more moves to the sequence, Esperanza.

AS on the lower moves of Terremer.

Ashima on the lower moves of Terremer.

Ashima about to grab the nasty crimp on the Tierre de Sienne crux.

She’s about to grab the nasty crimp on the Tierre de Sienne crux.

Ashima attempting the crux throw.

Attempting the crux throw.

The move, over and over again...

The move, over and over again…

Warming up on Power of Silence. She said she had to adjust slightly because she's taller now, but she still uses the same beta when she sent years ago.

Warming up on Power of Silence. She said she had to adjust slightly because she’s taller now, but she still uses the same beta when she sent years ago.

A respite during warmup.

A respite during warmup. Day 2.

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~ by r. mulligan on 2015/12/15.

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