Forms… or Rather Reform, a “New” Problem at the Republic (updated)

I recently visited the Black Mountain area called The Republic with Matt Birch and Jill. Matt’s down here (or I guess over here… from the UK) to work on shoe development with me at Evolv. Unfortunately, the crag was fairly wet with dew, but we mustered on and sent a few lines. In the process, we climbed the line Forms, differently.

Matt Birch climbing the line Forms from a lower hold, adding two moves and making it infinitely more fun.

Matt Birch about to match on the start holds of Forms, thus adding two moves and making it infinitely more fun. Clouds/fog were moving in in the background.

Further along the lines of Reform, Matt climbed Forms exiting directly above at the lip. All 3 of us couldn’t understand why the FAist climbed it traversing right. It’s bouldering; it’s pretty universal to climb up from as low as possible, not sideways when a clearly fun mantel can be had just going up. For me, the right traverse exit is something to do AFTER doing the obvious straight up line, an alternative exit for those with nothing else to do… like having done everything. Overall, the line we climbed (exiting directly) was super cool!

Matt then added the lower moves, repeated it and jokingly called it Reform. From the original start, a long slightly rounded grainy crimp rail, we 3 thought it was a 7 pointer. From the lower start, it made for an 8, but it’s still the same color. Damn gB authors are trying to force us to enjoy the climbing and not the numbers! What the…?

Update: For the record, we actually downgraded the color from Red to Yellow, whatever.

Earlier we warmed up on a few problems and ending with God is Dead, a low traverse that’s quite fun. I thought it could be, given the wet conditions, a four, but 5 is probably more accurate. Though we didn’t have a “problem list book,” we exited where it made sense, at the obvious jug sidepull over the lip, just shy of the corner where it meets up with a problem from the left. Maybe that’s why it felt soft. Someone correct me if you know the true finish.

The Republic is quite good, and we hope to get in one more day before it gets too hot. Maybe not. There’s a line or two to do in the steep cave.

Here is an odd angle of the topout move, not a true mantel… unless you’re short. Jill had to reverse the sloper lip into a press to finish the exit:

Matt executing the exit moves of Reform (aka, Froms). Jill pressed this out with the sloper at his chest... that crimp was too high for her to reach.

Matt executing the exit moves of Reform (aka, Forms Direct Low). Jill pressed this out with the sloper at his chest… that crimp was too high for her to reach.

The actual start of Reform, v8.

The actual start of Reform, v8.

Update 2: We returned on Thursday, and Matt repeated Metamorphosis on his 2nd try (botched the finish on his first try from greasing cause he forgot his chalk bag!). We also did the line (unknown) left of God is Dead and called it a 6. That problem could be started from the far left but needs a good scrub to remove the lichen.

Jill on the unknown v6 just left of God is Dead.

Jill on the unknown v6 just left of God is Dead.

Matt Birch on his second go of Metamorphosis, v10.

Matt Birch on his second go of Metamorphosis, v10, crux 1.

If you like back flags, this problem is your thing! Matt repeating crux 1 again for crux 2.

If you like back flags, this problem is your thing! Matt repeating crux 1 again for crux 2.

Along the lip of Metamorphosis.

Along the lip of Metamorphosis.

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~ by r. mulligan on 2015/05/25.

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