Mr. Freeze

Sunday, I repeated the toprope line Mr. Freeze ground up. It was originally rated 12a or v4 as a toprope, but John Weinberg, who rehearsed it on TR then climbed it without a rope last year in December 2013, called it a 5, maybe harder. I felt it was probably a v5, sent on my second try. The crux is the first move, getting off the ground and going to the high left crimp, but the mental crux is the move back to the crack at about 15 feet. The line climbs the face directly right of Butterfly crack at Quail Springs turnout, or Trashcan rock.

One more move before heading to the crack at left on Mr. Freeze, v5

One more move to go before heading to the crack at left on Mr. Freeze, v5

Start is reachy. Here John Weinberg is fully extended. Also, he starts on a lower right sloping crimp, but I couldn't reach it, instead opting for a higher undercling pinch.

Start is reachy. Here John Weinberg is fully extended. Also, he starts on a lower right sloping crimp, but I couldn’t reach it, instead opting for a higher undercling pinch.

Robert Wu with his left hand on the same start hold I used, and with the lower crimp to his left.

Robert Wu with his left hand on the same start hold I used, and with the lower crimp to his left.

Here I'm just reaching the crack, but the jug is higher up above my left hand. That left foot is NOT confidence-inspiring.

Here I’m just reaching the crack, but the jug is just above my left hand. That left foot is NOT confidence-inspiring.

First move...

First move…

Second move...

Second move…

high up the crack with maybe 10 more feet to go. It gets real easy above the jug if you're comfortable climbing crack.

high up the crack with maybe 10 more feet to go. It gets real easy above the jug if you’re comfortable climbing crack.

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~ by r. mulligan on 2015/04/12.

3 Responses to “Mr. Freeze”

  1. Very cool! This blog makes me hate Oregon! 🙂 Hopefully the Sprinter will be ready by the end of summer and we can come down and frolic about the trees and thunderstones with you guys.

  2. that’s rad!!! I’ve never man’ed up to boulder those lines before, usually just stuck to the low-star stuff behind it. very nice!

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