Marion Mtn. Highball

On Saturday, Anthony Tarascio sent his project Shadow of the Colossus, v10, an impressive line up a massive boulder, about an hours’ hike up the main trail. A video of his send can be seen here. He explained the topout involves exiting over and around an offwidth crack too large for fists. If you’re into offwidths you’ll be psyched to do the exit moves on this awesome line! If not, he said he grabbed a sloping crimp, pasted a high foot and kept bumping up until he got a decent hold before getting his body over onto the slab.

The crux is the first move from the sit off underclings.  It requires the standard practice of pulling on and hesitating before firing the dyno. He felt the first move was a 9 with the next section about an 8.

The crux is the first move from the sit off underclings. It requires the standard practice of pulling on and hesitating before firing the dyno. He felt the first move was a 9 with the next section about an 8.

Congratulations on establishing a 5 star line!

He originally tried the line from the ground up but backed off when he couldn’t figure out a reasonable exit. Needless to say, the line was headpointed. Rumor has it there are other boulders this size!

The weather has been good for Marion Mountain bouldering, and development continues with many moderates. FA style here has been a combination of ground up and occasional headpoints. Another line, put up by another friend is also tall but much easier. I’ll see if I can get a video of it and post it. Here is the video of Percy & the White Haired Widow, v4.

Very sweet!

Very sweet!

In Josh it’s been tolerable with good conditions nearing sunset and into the evening. Luckily, the wind has stayed fairly consistent with very dry conditions, so once the sun sets, things get excellent for a few hours. One evening, the dew point hit, so we chilled for a short bit and resumed climbing as things got crisp and good again. Jill, I and friends have been developing a new crag in Josh, so stay tuned. I can’t find any evidence of FA activity, so everything seems to be new. These late sessions have made late evenings the norm now with little change for the foreseeable future.

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~ by r. mulligan on 2015/03/22.

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