Past Sends and French Senders

Here is a video that you may have not seen before called American Life Style: Josua Tree [sic]. It features Romain Desgranges and Fred Rouhling climbing the lines Bobcat Blood (gB name: Frenchie) and Scatterbrain & Co. (gB name: Scatterbrain Sit), among others.

Screen grab of Scatterbrain sit send.

Screen grab of Scatterbrain sit send.

The video also shows them trying two problems at the Ryan Mountain Trailhead parking area (on the right just before Sheeps Pass heading towards GTR). One of the problems, as far as I know, is off limits because of archeological evidence:

At the Ryan Mountain Trailhead parking, this problem is visible from the road.

At the Ryan Mountain Trailhead parking, this problem is visible from the road.

Here is the other problem at the Trailhead parking area:

I'm not sure if this problem has any issues with access.

I’m not sure if this problem has any issues with access.

I’d seen the video before but forgot about it until Noel brought it to my attention via a Facebook response he got from Romain in 2011:

“For scatterbrain i think perhaps v13 but if you are taller it’S fit sûr easyer… And we call it satterbrain & co
For the second one we call it bobcat’s blood for a small v11 !”

The gB rates Bobcat’s Blood v8 and Scatterbrain sit v11. Here are two screen grabs of Bobcat’s Blood. The first shows that the start is a jump and the second shows him working the move to the horizontal sloper before the upper crux sequence:

jump start to the higher hold on Bobcat's Blood.

jump start to the higher hold on Bobcat’s Blood.

Using an undercling move to gain the matching sloper.

Using an undercling move to gain the matching sloper.

Thanks goes to Noel for this additional information from Romain: “Nice to speak with you about the best climb place in the world joshua [sic].” Can’t agree more! 😉

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~ by r. mulligan on 2015/03/11.

7 Responses to “Past Sends and French Senders”

  1. Hey Rob! Thanks for the info and comments. I remember that you attempted the line Bobcat Blood many years ago. I was there as well when Ethan climbed the line, I recall he did it in a couple of tries and said v8 or v9. At some later point I was there with Patrick Luther, who flashed it casually, he commented that it was v7 or 8. So, that’s how I arrived at v8. I caught a bit of info at Nomads that Rouhling and his crew did another line nearby, called Black Pearl. They said it was the hardest line in the Park. Do you know about that line? I believe I know where it is, but not confirmed.

  2. I did tomahawk and year or so ago. Felt a lot harder than a seven. Especially because the first crimp broke a few times in the process of working it out. Fun climb though.

  3. This Is really cool to hear their opinions! I’ve always been curious. I haven’t done bobcats blood but fell of the topout a few weeks ago. In my opinion it’s closer to 9 or 10. I was there when Ethan did it a few years back and if I recall correctly he seemed to think 10. Either way it’s a pretty awesome climb!

  4. Very cool video. In an age of high production videos it nice to see a more down tempo experiential vibe. Some of the angles they got reminded me of just how one of a kind Josh is and how the potential for creativity there is limitless.

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