The Sleeping Master, a Ryan Campground Sloper Traverse.

Prior to the new guidebook being published, I had climbed a short and low problem called One Trick Toey, but for unknown reasons, it was never included in the gB. Since that time, the key “trick toey” move changed because part of the slot feature broke off. Luckily, it probably won’t break any more, but unfortunately, it changed the difficulty of the first move considerably. That “trick toe” move is now much harder to perform. I actually only use the toe slot now for the match move on the sloper lip. The original line went right after the sit start move then topped out (you can also top it out straight from the slopers), but this new line goes left all the way to the 5.9 mantel called Dreaming of the Mantel.

The Sleeping Sensei, Ryan Campground, Jill entering the first crux sequence of the traverse.

The Sleeping Master, Ryan Campground, Jill entering the first crux sequence of the traverse.

I’ve given the problem 3 grades for starting at different parts. From the underside start of the original One Trick Toey problem, it goes at hard 7 to 8. If you start it after the sit start move, the traverse itself goes at probably hard 6 or easy 7, and at about midway, there’s a obvious match move, so starting from there yields probably a 5 to the finish. The rock is excellent except for the left start crimp rail… the least important hold on the whole line whose breakage may not change the grade.

The first move of The Sleeping Sensei, or One Trick Toey.

The first move of The Sleeping Master, or One Trick Toey.

A true sit start, but we don't pull straight from the dirt... pull and hang then go...it makes the move much harder for sure

A true sit start, but we don’t pull straight from the dirt… pull and hang then go…it makes the move much harder for sure

Here’s a video of me sending, with a bit of a struggle on the final move. For as warm as it was, but windy, my tips really started to glass over. The title comes from the fact that fellow boulderer, Ernie, was like a sleeping master, nearly sending it on his first stick of the intro move, falling on the final move.

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~ by r. mulligan on 2015/02/15.

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