2 New Problems at Stonehenge

Last weekend I added a new line called Flowers For Algernon, v6-7, behind Leisure World, v1, that sits in a corridor accessible from the approach from Cap Rock. The line is maybe 20 feet, but the last 8 feet is easy. The downclimb is left from the top finishing to the right of Sand Castle, v3. The right edge of the line is overhanging and inches away from the giant Leisure World boulder. On the front side is another problem we did months previously called Exit Through the Gift Shop (sit), v4. It tops out at the same summit of Flowers, climbing a 12 foot 5.5 slab above a huge jug.

Jill trying the first move on Flowers for Algernon, v6 or 7. The line continues up to the two shallow huecos above and right of Jill.

Jill trying the first move on Flowers for Algernon, v6 or 7. The line continues up to the two shallow huecos above and right of Jill. The top is out of the frame.

That right hand is on an obvious flat crimp.

That right hand is on an obvious flat crimp. At the low right corner of the photo is the underside face of the sit to Exit Through the Gift Shop, v4.

Flowers For Algernon starts standing with a chest high flat crimp and an obvious foot ledge and moves up and right through two shallow huecos to reach the right arete. I found besides the start move, the move up the arete to stand in the right hueco most likely the crux. Some of the stone has surface grain but otherwise good.

Exit Through the Gift Shop (sit) starts on a sloping shelf and makes a hard move out left to a small sloping crimp then up irregular crimps. The rock on this problem is quite good.

This is the sit to Exit Through the Gift Shop, v4?.

This is the sit to Exit Through the Gift Shop, v4?.

This is the hard move...

This is the hard move…

We also climbed Leisure world from a true sit at v3ish, starting matched on an obvious undercling at its lowest point.

Here is the sit of Leisure World, v3, with hands matched on the obvious low incut undercling.

Here is the sit of Leisure World, v3, with hands matched on the obvious low incut undercling.

The first move was out to an incut crimp then on to that sloping "knob" in the foreground.

The first move was out to an incut crimp then on to that sloping “knob” in the foreground.

Leisure World is an excellent problem, me thinks, with a super good topout move onto the slab. I've never topped the boulder out as it goes for another 20ish feet up a grainy/scary slab

Leisure World is an excellent problem, me thinks, with a super good topout move onto the slab. I’ve never topped the boulder out as it goes for another 20ish feet up a grainy/scary slab. Exit Through the Gift Shop is visible in the background, and Flowers For Algernon is on the other side behind that overhang.

I plan to blog about Stone Henge in general once I climb Aron Couzen’s 3 Honkeys and Some Hip Hop Yo, a sweet high ball with a nearby boulder in the fall line. Stay tuned!

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~ by r. mulligan on 2015/01/28.

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