60’s F/15-20º C for another week… plus 95.2 problems

As expected, we’re looking at a fair number of clear days, but the temps are consistently in the 60’s (or high teens metric). Today was supposed to be the warmest, about 20º C, then tapering off over the next week. It’s warm mainly midday, and today was a rest/hike day, so tomorrow should be about shade problems only.

If it were stone, it's a sweet but juggy overhanging arete.

If it were stone, it’s a sweet but juggy overhanging arete.

Over the last week, as things dried out, we spent a fair amount of time at 95.2. The area is quite large and spread out, but with so many good moderates (6c-7b+), and quick drying, we were in continued company any day of the week. Each day we sampled a different area of blue, red and white circuit problems then threw in a few 7a and harder lines as available. Our plan was to do quantity, but also try and send problems 7a and harder quickly. In other words, we worked to build base with this style of compression then try and add a few harder lines to get used to intensity. I either repeated some problems before moving on, or I tried another in the area, if Jill was still working a line. If Jill ran into reach issues, and they were plentiful them though they weren’t insurmountable, it would mean a bit more work time and tries before sending, usually. So far, we’ve balanced things out; this is because there are so many problems to choose from or nearby areas with first-rate moderates to keep the intensity sustained.

Here are some of the cool lines we enjoyed in chronological order on one particular day:

Not too tall, decent landing mostly, and some good movement, white #35 (sit).

Not too tall, decent landing mostly, and some good movement, white #35 (sit).

same move that Jill does using the same foot

same move that Jill does using the same foot

Just right of White #35 is this problem, Blue #10

Just right of White #35 is this problem, Blue #10

A little lower down the hill is this boulder with White #37, Jill climbing, and to the left white #36.

A little lower down the hill is this boulder with White #37, Jill climbing, and to the left white #36.

The problem above has a sit, I assume, that is visible in the photo above below and to the right of Jill’s right leg. We don’t know the ratings to these, but the left line was overheard as being 5+. I assume this one being the same or 6a. I thought the sit was probably between 6c-7a because of a shoulder move through the undercling.

I started matched no the rail. I used a fist jam to make the reach more easily.

I started matched on the rail. I used a fist jam to make the reach more easily.

Finally getting into the stand start.

Finally getting into the stand start.

The start wasn't obvious, so we used a right pinch just right of Jill's right hand and an undercling where Jills' right foot is standing.

The start wasn’t obvious, so we used a right pinch just right of Jill’s right hand and an undercling where Jill’s right foot is standing.

For a 5+, pretty tough moves at the top.

For a 5+, pretty tough moves at the top.

We then ventured over to a hilltop 7a that’s very popular called, Retour aux Sources:

Second move on Retour aux Sources, 7a.

Second move on Retour aux Sources, 7a.

One way to get to the high sidepull. The previous shot shows how some climb it as a compression problem. The topout remains a compression move.

One way to get to the high sidepull. The previous shot shows how some climb it as a compression problem. The topout remains a compression move.

Exit sequence starting here with the sidepull.

Exit sequence starting here with the sidepull.

from here I had to spot her, but we both did the move approximately the same with a high right pasty divot or smear edge and then step up to the high horizontal, finish.

From here I had to spot her, but we both did the move approximately the same with a high right pasty divot or smear edge and then step up to the high horizontal at her waist, finish.

One benefit of the higher temps and drier conditions are that we can continue to climb through sunset for a short bit before the humidity skyrockets and all is done.

Jill sending the 6b+ classic line along the arete between the harder lines of Rudeboy, 7a, and Les Pied dans la Lune, 7a+.

Jill eyeing the powerful move to the upper slopers on Rudeboy, 7a.

About to exit the roof of the unnamed classic right line, 6b+.

About to exit the roof of the unnamed classic right line, 6b+.

My sequence for the 6b+. Rudeboy climbs on the right face without the arete,  involving a big dyno finish, 7a.

My sequence for the 6b+. Rudeboy climbs on the right face without the arete and involves a big dyno finish, 7a.

Steep climbing still gives us problems because it really fatigues us. After doing the other problems, and sending the non-eliminit 6b+, I was too tired to throw the dyno off the matched slopers, about where my right hand is in the above shot. When I think about having done 1 blue twice, once with a sit, 2 reds, 3 whites 7 times total, 1 sit to a white, then the above 6b+ and finally failing on Rudeboy, I realize we need more fitness and power, at least on steep stuff.

Trees along the trail to Béorlots.

Trees along the trail to Béorlots.

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~ by r. mulligan on 2014/03/09.

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