one higher.

Reigning Grains, V3, is a stellar line with solid patina ledges at a new* (non-published) bouldering area known by route climbers as the Oyster Bar.

about to exit via a cool hand jam finish

about to exit via a cool hand jam finish

during this last weekend, at the Oyster Bar area (actually the boulders up and east along the hillside), we added a few more problems to the previous weekend’s 3 lines. the one above line was is visually striking yet prone to “rain grains,” yet in it’s the problem’s defense, all the holds are solid on patina edges and slopers. the grain is on the sloping outside faces between horizontal slashes. most of it cleaned up well for climbing, but grain will still “reign” down a bit on Reigning Grains (sit), v3. the line has two exits, one direct, the other exits going left after reaching a high and long sloper shelf. I didn’t go all the way to the far left, though this is an option, but I did go far enough that the second good topout was had. truth was I just didn’t like the idea of exiting all the way left.

this gives a good idea of the wall nature

this gives a good idea of the wall nature

about to reach from the sit start on Reigning Grains direct, v3

about to reach from the sit start on Reigning Grains (sit), v3

the line is simply stunning. both exits are worthy, as long as you can keep your cool with a few lose grains under foot!

the line is simply stunning. both exits are worthy, as long as you can keep your cool with a few lose grains under foot!

moving through the horizontals

moving through the horizontals

Reigning Grains Left, v3 topout. one can also continue along the rail below or at my waist to exit without much of a fall

the topout of Reigning Grains Left, v3. one can also continue along the rail below or at my waist to exit without much of a fall

the Direct line is the only one cleaned heavily. also, some of the holds are hard to find unless you can lock off high and peek into the horizontals for the holds. I’ve considered calling the Direct a 4, but it’s not harder than Slashface, just more sustained right off the top!

the topout is legit, also, the fall line at this point is about on the right edge of the pad Alex is standing on.

the topout is legit, also, the fall line at this point is about on the right edge of the pad Alex is standing on.

two saturdays ago, I sent a new crimp line in the same area. in addition to this stellar v8 called Sub Rosa, I added a 4, 5 and v0 nearby, and the above mentioned v3 further up the formation along the east side, Reigning Grains.

sub rosa. it starts right hand on the lower chalked side pull and left on a thin undercling just left of the corner and near her left shin.

Sub Rosa. it starts right hand on the lower chalked side pull and left on a thin undercling just left of the corner and near her left ankle.

for our warmup, we added two problems nearby: Sticks and Stone, v0-, and Slit Your Wrists, v4 stand, v5 sit. both are at the base of the formation, slighty to the east, directly in from the Access Fund trail. Sticks and Stone is the obvious horizontal rail/scoop behind a ton of vegetation. we walked around the vegetation to the left and came in along the front of the boulders. between the boulders and the living vegetation are a bunch of dead heavy brush or small tree branches. not visible in the photo is our pad on top of the dead branches. I personally find these types of climbs great for warming up or (re) learning how to move technically and not powerfully.

Slit Your Wrists is a free standing boulder in front of the vegetation further to the east. the problem faces east except for one key sloper on the south side, yeah, only the poor sloper bakes in the sun! regardless, it’s an excellent problem only marred by the grainy topout.

matches on the horizontal rail then goes through two mantels

matches on the horizontal rail then goes through two mantels

cool moves through the depression

cool moves through the depression

Slit Your Wrists stand, v4, showing here the south facing sloper at the left hand

Slit Your Wrists stand, v4, showing here the south facing sloper at the left hand

one more move to reach a jug directly above the left hand. it's the exit move the the problem name makes sense

one more move to reach a jug directly above the left hand. it’s the exit move the the problem name makes sense

here is the low start, v5, matched on the sloping rail

here is the low start, v5, matched on the sloping rail

the moves are super cool and sustained for the grade

the moves are super good and sustained for the grade

the last hard move

the last hard move

the stand starts on the rail at the left hand, matched. here I'm moving through from the low start

the stand starts on the rail at the left hand, matched. here I’m moving through from the low start

at the base of the problem sits a Teddy Bear cactus, so in order to “deal” with it, we packed a few small boulders around it and sat the pad on top.

between the two bottom pads, under the orange Evolv pad, sits the cactus. the fall is actually just in front, but this added more protection, especially from the pads, the real culprit of crushed vegetation

between the two bottom pads, under the orange Evolv pad, sits the cactus. the fall is actually just in front, but this added more protection, especially from the pads, the real culprit of crushed vegetation

this next boulder called Silly sits below and east of Reigning Grains. the arete is called The Kickapoo Way, v5, with the moves and stone all solid and technical.

The Kickapoo Way, v5, starts at the two lower chalked holds on the arete. Reigning Grains is above and right out of the photo

The Kickapoo Way, v5, starts at the two lower chalked holds on the arete. Reigning Grains is above and right out of the photo

reaching from the start. another direct line starts down and right on the dark-light angle and is an undercling

reaching from the start. another direct line starts down and right (right of my waist) on the dark-light angle edge and is an undercling, squat start

cool beta using the undercling, but Alex wasn't able to put it all together.

cool beta using the undercling, but Alex wasn’t able to put it all together.

another line, Silly, 5.9, climbs the blunt arete in the foreground right put up by Jill

another line, Silly, 5.9, climbs the blunt arete in the foreground right put up by Jill

a parting shot…

sunset casting a shadow in the atmosphere, I think

sunset casting a shadow amongst atmospheric particulates

*new in that no known boulder problems have been recorded for this area though evidence suggests some persons have climbed some things because of the appearance of cleaning on a few grainy holds.

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~ by r. mulligan on 2014/01/28.

5 Responses to “one higher.”

  1. Kurt Smith tells me that he was the first person to rockclimb at the Oysterbar Area, and according to him the area is called Teenage Wasteland. He says that he also established bouldering there but did not go into detail on it.

    • Thanks, Robert. Everything I/we did there seemed to be new since the tell-tale signs of wear weren’t evident, at least on the problems we climbed. And I say this because the ones we did always had at least one hold (foot or hand) that was either very fragile or grainy enough to require obvious cleaning.

  2. I’m such a sucker…..I’m like too grainy/scary how dare he, I’m totally gonna go down there and show him!:) Maybe instead of the south we could just spend a month in the park.

  3. wow rob…..thanks for making me hate my life!!!! 🙂

    • always happy to be of service. 🙂 I think you need an excuse to road trip…

      dude, you would have loved this thing, and there’s two more right next to it… one climbs the steep overhang to the right around the corner (but this one might be too grainy or scary, hahmmmm… and the other is taller and goes through vertical slashes with patina all over them… except the finish, of course! there’s a reason why these haven’t been done.

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