return to the Meadows.

Meadows boulder, that is. I haven’t been to this boulder for quite a few years, so returning this last weekend was enjoyable. the Nicole Problem is now v10, from 8. the slopers were very textured, not now. Meadows Direct was grainy with a ton of cleaning, not now. it was v7, now a 6. Robert put up Raspberry, v6, and it’s quite clean!!!!! I thought if this line was climbed, the boulder would deteriorate into a giant sand pile… but it didn’t. some peeps seem to want to try a linkup from the Direct to the Nicole Problem. dumb idea. rock too poor… and now there are three v6’s on this boulder, all harder than Alexandria… which probably a bit overrated, maybe easy 5. (for the record I established Meadows Direct and called it a 7 erroneously, and I also fa’d the low start to Alexandria, calling it 8 back then but I think it’s a hard 7.)

sending Meadows Traverse, v5, with the moon overlooking the boulder

sending Meadows Traverse, v5, with the moon overlooking the boulder

in the process of climbing the routes on the front side, I decided to put this simple overlay onto an overview shot. it shows all the variations that I’m aware of or climbed. Jill “Vanna” Carpenter is displaying the goods.

meadows overlay

sorry about the rotation. I’m maximizing size given the site format’s limitation.

this overlay differentiates from the gB on problem #3 (Slapslope) if you actually topped it out directly instead of making one traverse move and exiting on problem #1 (Way of the Weasel). I think the obvious exit on Slapslope is going left after doing the crux crimp move and reaching the top. forcing the line directly is still a v4, I think. I also start #1 from the same place as the others instead of farther left. the gB shows problems #5 (Surf Safari)and #6 (my jpeg, not gB photo) as starting lower, but we didn’t see anything lower than a pair of closely situated flat jugs. they are the same holds the traverse would reach and move through. problem #5 (above) shows how one can climb it differently and make it harder, we thought. if you climb it as per the #6 blue line, Surf Safari felt only slightly harder as the one big move on Way of the Weasel, and didn’t justify the full number higher. problems #7 and #9 are just left variants of the standard finishes shown in the gB.

a slightly updated and different take on the lines based on our personal experience recently.

regarding Raspberry, I found it equally enjoyable for rock that I originally thought would just crumble. the right exit is worth doing too if that’s your thing. the moves are really classic for a font-esque style problem. the straight up, ditto.

one of the strobes didn't fire, but it shows the crux sloper well. I'm reaching for another bad sloper before bumping to "safety."

one of the strobes didn’t fire, but it shows the right hand crux sloper well. I’m reaching for another bad sloper before bumping to “safety.”

setting up on the right sloper. the direct matches this sloper and goes up and right

setting up on the right sloper. the direct matches this sloper and goes up and right

after sending the Traverse, Jill started on the Direct, shown below doing the first move on Meadows Direct; it’s pretty cool how extended the move can be, and at 5′ 4″, she’s not toe hooking either. the whole sequence for her goes without cutting, especially since I’m 5′ 10.5″ and I needed a heel to work through the match. no send, tough big second move. I remember Brandi having a hard time too with the dyno seen in the video Friction.

first move...

first move…

...set up for matching.

…set up for matching.

I shot these with high iso using two mini LED light banks since she couldn’t see the tick mark using a headlamp–it obscured the line and blended in with the rock. shortly after, a ranger visited wanting to know if we were camping. understood. probably the lights (and flashes) looked like a whole camp scene.

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~ by r. mulligan on 2014/01/16.

2 Responses to “return to the Meadows.”

  1. Alexandria is not an “easy 5”. A hard 6 for me.

    • Thanks for the input. For what it’s worth I no longer call it ‘easy’ 5, more like ‘easier than a 6,’ at least compared to many other 5’s and 6’s in the park.

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