“new” circuit problems near Miledi boulders, et al

as our usual practice, when we warm up, we try to do any and all problems that are available, not just those in the gB (guidebook). that said, here are some more to do supporting the idea of a circuit in the area from the Miledi boulder north towards the entrance. near the Scratch-n-Sniff boulder is a small sloping nothing about 8 feet tall. the goodness, though, is in the details. starting on the left side, one can mantel straight up or traverse right to the far right corner at the boulder’s highest point then top out. both are on stellar rock making it an excellent sloper warmup or beginner trainer (so to speak) for those not good on slopers. this boulder has no name, but on page 45 of the gB, it’s very obviously seen to the right of Scratch-n-Sniff (photo right middle).

traversing left to right

traversing left to right

here are a few more images:

starts matched at the left hand

starts matched at the left hand

from here, Richard exits straight up

from here, Richard exits straight up

the next area we established more problems is near the Miledi boulder. most of these problems are in front and right of the Miledi boulder (viewed from road) on the walk from Scratch-n-Sniff to Miledi.

this boulder faces away from the roads with Miledi to the right, out of image

this boulder faces away from the road with Miledi to the right, out of image

we called this boulder and line Frozen Ground, v2 or 3. it starts match on the left on a thin sidepull behind the left arete low. a huge angled foot ledge resides below. John Weinberg added a left face line, unnamed, v2?, starting this time left of the above arete (but side-pulling the arete with the right hand at the uppermost part where a notch is created by a shallow roof), and with a high thin crimp for the left just before the left arete. it’s a one move crux but good to the top. the left high sidepulls are grainy.

jill did this line called frozen mound, v1 or 2?

jill did this line called Frozen Mound, v1 or 2?

needs two pads or just don't fall. rock is excellent

needs two pads or just don’t fall. rock is excellent

starting holds then one big move to top.

starting holds then one big move to top.

this problem is really fun but so short! the right foot is crumbly but if it broke would make the problem possibly go towards the left arete first then up… guessing. it would be harder for sure as it’s the only foot underneath.

close up of the holds, I called this One Up, v2 or 3...

close up of the holds, I called this One Up, v2ish

if you're tall, you can keep your foot on

nearly maxed at 5′ 10.5″, I kept the foot on

this next boulder (below) is to the right of the Miledi boulder and doesn’t look like much. it has a hanging lip that extends left to right with many options and exits. they all utilize heel hooking skills… at a rudimentary level.

starting matched at the lowest part, go up... crux is reaching the high left shelf

starting matched at the lowest part, go up… crux is reaching the high left shelf, Frozen Lip 1

this line starts matched at my right hand then goes left until you can exit into that shelf in front of me, Frozen Lip 2, v2?

this line starts matched at my right hand then goes left until you can exit into that shelf in front of me, Frozen Lip 2, v2?

in the above photo, that low shelf at my right heel extends right and is where Frozen Lip 1 starts… heeling at the same place as my right heel. this above line can also exit right going straight to the high shelf as per Frozen Lip 1. Also, the Frozen Lip 2 line (above) can extend and continue left along the left arete or maybe continue around along a crack that’s a continuation of the shelf, but dissipates, mid face further left around past the left arete. the finish would be harder, but the line is actually good.

these next images are of a traverse starting at Frozen Lip 1 and continuing right to an obvious jug horn (not visible). the mantel goes up in this area. I didn’t want to continue further right past where the edge cuts in, as the rock turns grainy. I was going to call it Frozen Lipping, maybe v5ish?, but I didn’t do the mantel, for unknown reasons. I think I tried it but wasn’t totally warm, so I went and did the lines to the left, then forgot all about it, and decided the cold was making the warmup not work. we bailed to go to something harder, but found my left front tire very low. a self-drilling sheet metal screw had imbedded in between the treads on my All-Terrains. our late afternoon was spent hobbling back to town to Big-O tires. it was seeing the images for the blog that reminded me I had just skipped it. next time. it’s the one technical line on the steep end of the boulder. John Weinberg did a slab around the back side around right. I didn’t get any info other than the impression it was wasn’t hard but a poor landing.

starting into the crux after the start below the left hand, Frozen Lipping, v4 or 5.

starting into the crux after the start below the left hand, Frozen Lipping, v4 or 5.

middle of crux... I used this line as a warmup for Le Sel de la Terre.

middle of crux… I used this line as a warmup for Le Sel de la Terre.

this next problem (below), done by jill, is the right bulge of the Frozen Ground boulder. the start is on the low chalked hold near my shin. it’s called Demorpho, v1, for a reason. tall peeps may not like, but for me, the start is cool and demands doing the move well, which is what I like. excellent rock as usual.

called Frozen Ground Bulge, v1, start at that chalked hold by my shin... really.

called for good reason Demorpho, v1, start at that chalked hold by my left shin… really.

there are more, but already a circuit can be created between the Barrett, Scratch-n-Sniff, Miledi and Cambodia boulder areas. this circuit can even start back at the Embryo and Blip boulders. if you really slow it down and try and enjoy each move, making it work with least resistance, it can really help improve your game. subtleties are where the real enjoyment resides. details. and control comes from your core, your center.

then there is the example of me sending Le Sel de la Terre where I’m in survival mode struggling to exit the pool; it was a folly of error from the dyno to the finish. I stuck the right 3 finger sloping dish with just my ring finger, then after fixing it on the match, I wasn’t totally composed and reached imbalanced on the crossover, then when I went out to the right, I forgot to first change my hand positions to nearest the right side, then forgot to reverse my left to a mantel (my original beta that works really well) so instead I reached blindly and found a perfect square mono crimp to stack on. I personally don’t have a problem going all-out without care of my performance, but I also do value refined movement immensely. I just think it’s also important not to forget that one can go super scrappy because it’s important to experience it and work to normalize it. it’s humbling to see how unrefined my climbing is on video. but it doesn’t means I’d rather not have sent. the send is the high. it’s that simple. my right PIP joint was stiff for a couple of weeks because of hanging that hold what amounts to a large crystal or two on a slope. but I’m super psyched I didn’t get injured at my age. I guess maybe that was the best feeling to know I walked away uninjured when I could have easily have been tweaked.

I’ll be doing more of these circuit blogs as we cover more ground. the next area will be at the Gateway boulders south on Geology Tour road, GTr, East cluster. once I post a .kmz file, it will show each problem as a pin with written info and a photo making a circuit concept appear more logical. I won’t list them according to a purposeful order, just present them as we know of them, but with accurate information based on hands on experience.

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~ by r. mulligan on 2014/01/01.

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