sunday amongst the turkey visitors

our most recent return was on saturday/sunday during the turkey day gorging. our visit was accompanied by Linh Nguyen, the Product Line Manager at Evolv, a positive new force for shoe design and development. on sunday, we met up with Richard Boyle, so he could take us to his project near the Miledi boulder. it’s a stellar line and goes at v5 or 6.

Richard Boyle doing the first move on the fa of Bodie in Cambodia, v5 or 6, Cambodia boulder.

Richard Boyle doing the first move on the fa of Bodhi in Cambodia, v5 or 6, Cambodia boulder.

here are a few more images of the problem when Richard attempted it while still in the sun. after he sent it, I repeated it and agreed I couldn’t agree on a rating, either 5 or 6, but I’m guessing it’s morpho if you can’t reach the rail over the lip.

the first move is the crux if you go big for the horizontal just above the roof

the first move is the crux if you go big for the horizontal just above the roof just past his reaching hand… the hand is on a very sloping edge

this shot shows the crimp rail well, rock is simply top notch

this shot shows the crimp rail well in the upper right corner, rock is simply top notch

while he worked the first move a few times, the rest of us set out to climb any other lines on the Cambodia boulder. the white slab-like face to the left of Bodhi in Cambodia is an absolutely stellar face of quartz-like rock (I’m guessing) with a crack running through it part way. this line starts either at the far left end where the horizontal crack meets the arete, or you can start it off crimps about mid distance along the crack, and it’s called Point Break, v0?.

start holds, but after I've stood up and am about to reach for the arete

start holds, but after I’ve stood up and am about to reach for the arete

these are the start holds when starting on the far left. notice my left foot still on the small boulder below

these are the start holds when starting on the far left. notice my left foot still on the small boulder below

Linh Nguyen about to crimp the last edge before the lip

Linh Nguyen about to crimp the last edge before the lip

the landing requires two pads, and in our case, one pad is folded under the far pad edge while the Flashed Shogun offers broad but deceptive cover…the boulder is only about 2/3rds as wide as the pad.

Sidenote: as a general rule, I try not to leave such “hanging” edges of the pad because, in a fall, the automatic reaction is to assume the whole pad is flat like it appears. it’s real difficult to remember that only a certain section of the pad is flat. that means quick decisions are delayed, making foot position changes even harder and harder still to be accurate to stab a foot onto a nearby rock or something. in this case, I didn’t make it real clean… that section in front of my legs, about same width too, has nothing under it. the far right edge (right of my right leg) sits on a rock. the far left inside edge is unsupported, because the rock doesn’t extend to the edge whereas the folded pad is aligned at that right back outside corner.

anyways, the last problem is on the opposite corner to Bodhi in Cambodia, making it in fact an arete too. this one though is completely different to the Bodhi arete. it starts sitting in a cramped corner with a high dab potential, then it has two exits. the natural line called Johnny Utah, v0 (for the first move), exits right onto the slab and up. very easy but actually enjoyable. short. staying on the corner yields some technical sloper and pinch moves then a morpho-like move with your foot on the start edge/break. that said, a good compression move on a nickel edge works well if you’re short. called Vaya con Dios Brah, our best consensus is about v4.

here I've made the first move off the awkward looking start that's not bad at all.

here I’ve made the first move off the awkward looking start that’s not bad at all.

the top moves above the vegetation. it's easy so we avoided crushing them.

the top moves above the vegetation are easy so we avoided crushing it with a pad.

though the wide angle lens has exaggerated the distance, it's still a long way to the jug at the top edge of the frame

though the wide angle lens has exaggerated the distance, it’s still a long way to the jug at the top edge of the frame

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~ by r. mulligan on 2013/12/05.

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