the return of the frustrated

as the title says, the trip wasn’t the best in terms of weather. and as the photos shows, it ain’t the northwest any more. we are back in josh, at home, comfortable and right back at it working on stuff. below is a new problem called Sense Offender, not so much because the video, past the break, shows me offending the style gods oh so much (check out the hair), but because the problem is so atypical of josh problems. it’s simple, overhanging, crimpy, and an easy topout. enjoy.

overview of the human sacrifice cove seen from the backside looking out at the entrance of the cove (south view)

overview of the human sacrifice cove seen from within the cove (south view) with pignose at upper center (very bright boulders)

jill from a sit start

jill from a sit start

overview shot showing Sense Offender

overview shot showing Sense Offender, hard to see, but a jug below the lip at center picture is a no bueno handhold

the problem is quite fun and very clean; after cleaning it, that is. factually, the line is super clean with perfect crimpers, but a small section had some keystone blocks loosely held but going to pull out. after removing them, a huge jug was left, the last keystone stuck, but this one I couldn’t remove, nor wanted to grab; it’s loose. you will see in the video near the end, I automatically go to put my foot on it and hesitate then switch feet lower.

here is a shot of the pad setup:

the shogun is used to bridge a wide gap above a 6 foot drop. the pad may get pushed through, but it'll still stop the climber. the orange evolv is directly over the upper last hard move

the shogun is used to bridge a wide gap above a 6 foot drop. the pad may get pushed through, but it should still stop the climbers’ fall. the orange evolv is directly over the upper last hard move

I also placed thin cover pads as shims in various places to fill in. not shown is a tanto over the rock at deep center. the falloff on the left is pretty far, and the hang for the start puts one over the left edge of the flashed pad.

we originally went out there to check out another project, but after reviewing the holds, and the likely difficulty, we weren’t convinced the rock is good enough. the irony is, it’s excellent except for sections where it matters most, small crimp edges and heel hooking sections. we plan on returning to develop a few more problems and take another look and do some cleaning to see if it’s more stable then we thought.

on the backside of the Sense Offender boulder is a super clean arete hidden in a jumble of other small boulders. after our one problem fa warmup, we switched pads and sent it before sunset.

it starts deep down behind the red tanto pads

the Equilibrium Arete, on the namesake boulder, starts deep down behind the red tanto pads

the rock on the Equilibrium Arete is excellent. it tops out at the notch above Jill’s hands. the fall is by no means ok, the arete is open-handed and the start is very barn-doorsy, so that boulder in the foreground sits just about head-striking distance to the climber if she/he falls. the only negative is potentially dabbing on the broken off section of rock at its base to the right.

lots of chalked somethings, but I climbed it primarily along the arete. sit start begins at Jill's left hand and another pinch below it

lots of chalked somethings, but I climbed it primarily along the arete. sit start begins at Jill’s left hand and another pinch below it

part of the crux sequence

part of the crux sequence

we used all 4 pads plus 4 thin cover pads. with a good spotter, it’s doable with just a few pads.

josh was so fun after so much rain, cold, fog, and heat. we’ll return very soon.

Update: I forgot to attach a rating to the arete. it’s hard to say since it was still part of the warmup, but I would say maybe v5-v6ish, 7 is questionable but possible.

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~ by r. mulligan on 2013/11/27.

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