mad max and the JY

here is a vid of Jill on Mad Max climbed October 11. the JY boulders have a decent number of good lines. I thought we took photos of some of this, but nada… with 1 short day, we didn’t get a chance at the Green Lung, Yosemite Hiball, The Strainer (arete opposite Green Lung, same boulder), and instead we just headed up hill to Mad Max and the Thunderdome variant. My style of climbing is more like the above 3 that we didn’t get on, whereas Jill is tempered by reach/wingspan or foothold issues but can climb well if she can work out a sequence. I find having climbed a fair amount with shorter persons, their focus is so much on endless details of sequence, capacity and reach. it’s cool because their sense of minute detail can be more fine-tuned, even in context to seasoned taller climbers. any ways, Mad Max went down quick differing only in an intermediate hand/heel move. she couldn’t go straight to the top… you can see it in the video. [Note: video soundtrack changed]

we worked Thunderdome a bit getting on the moves sans crux. I’m such a route climber. the line is decently long feeling easily like being in a groove, then comes the crux. right shoulder felt weak, well, strong up to about 3 inches shy of the hold. just can’t hit it linked through the shoulder… it all falls apart at the end. ugh. my foot isn’t delivering, no support from my base isolates the shoulder; regardless, good vibes on this cool line, for sure. love the finish big moves up through to the lip.

earlier, we tried warming up on a boulder called Nosebleed. interesting. Jill got shut down not able to do the long reach on the one move Sassy Chipmunk, v2, and then the very odd “warmup” v7 called Nosebleed was a wrist-bending struggle. I enjoyed it, but it was very tricky to work the foot and maintain balance. would have liked to be warmed up for that. one good thing was we were pretty much ready for Mad Max.

with days like this, returning to work on projects and other lines is obvious. but under November weather conditions, it’s hard to take projects seriously. so we changed tactics and decided to focus on moderates and if near by, try whatever harder lines existed. it has worked but projecting is limited to 2 days. since this area is full of more solid lines like the Mad Meadows and Forestland, we’ll up its priority.

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~ by r. mulligan on 2013/11/19.

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