amped on a cup of joe

We’re currently in Squamish with very good weather that may turn for the worse in the coming week end. Here since the 21st, it’s been what we’ve waited for, cold and clear; unfortunately, the sun sets by 6:30, and early am has been plagued with fog. Worse, once the sun sets, the humidity skyrockets till our breath appears like a perpetual fog in our headlamp beam. I’m editing some stuff today, so on our next rest day, I should update.

Nonetheless, here’s a video from Leavenworth, third day on, Jill sending Coffee Cup after a previous nights’ efforts. I sent quickly by headlamp, but night shooting didn’t work, 😉 and her efforts and body size makes the send footage more visually appealing, notwithstanding, it’s daytime too. And it always seems more impressive, or visually aesthetic, when smaller peeps are in video.

On the previous day, before we checked out Coffee Cup we ran into two setters from the Bellevue (WA) Stone Garden gym while they were on Dangle, v7. Both had cruised the first move but struggled to send the top mantle. For me, the first move was way hard: a straight up power move off a huge foot, huge flat finger ledge… a stretchy and long move to a sharp side pull. The mantel, just another move to exit. I helped Ben and Joel out on the exit movement skills, and Ben almost sent after a fair number more efforts. Jill, on the other hand, couldn’t touch the first move beta cause it’s morpho. Knowing that Natasha Barnes climbed it with short person beta (but not knowing what that beta was), she worked out a solid 2 move combo to make up for the one move others usually do; unfortunately, I didn’t shoot video, but I have a sequence of stills.

solid beta, well-executed

solid beta, well-executed

what the shot doesn't show is that she appeared to static the two moves.

what the shot doesn’t show is that she appeared to static the two moves, fingers crawling onto the crimp, and it’s small!

Here are 3 shots in sequence from above when she sent:

setting up the crimp

setting up the crimp

casually reaching

casually reaching

incut sidepull in hand.

incut sidepull in hand.

Topout for Jill, and I’m not trying to sound arrogant, was straight forward. Reach for the crimp, reverse the left sloper at lip into a thumb-in press, switch feet to center weight over the left palm, press till the left is vertically locked, raise right foot to top right of left palm. That’s the theory, but Jill set her knee down instead, like the others, only loosing style points… you know, those other points that really matter. 🙂

In the meantime, I was just f*#king around.

usually I prefer two hands instead of one...

usually I prefer two hands instead of one…

I finally, near the end, figured out that once I closed my right crimp, it not only didn’t come off, I also felt like I could adequately engage my right shoulder. Too little, too late. The brain knows, though I didn’t notice, there’s no point in maintaining a strong and linked shoulder if the hand can’t hold the open crimp. Also, the strong shoulder rotation to vertical (starting to get tired), in photo, actually levers my right hand off because my right wrist and shoulder can’t rotate sufficiently to support the shoulder roll. Range of motion issues. Age. (For the record, in this photo, I was using a closed crimp.) Then we headed to Coffee Cup, which we’d been wanting to try but hadn’t made it to yet.

On our first day, we jumped on Premium Coffee, the same day we arrived, late afternoon. By the time we parked, figured out what to warm up on and actually warmed up (choosing the easy problems around Royal Flush, the crack line), we arrived at Premium Coffee in the dark. Amazingly, the weather is drier there, so nighttime, though more humid, was still very good. The photo shows the rather famous problem’s slopers with the low wide one being the match start. Jill sent quickly first and had to figure out the topout on the partially damp rock from the previous rain. We both sent the crux nearly static save for a small bump. It just fit our style. Cool Problem especially if you top the boulder out.

sorry, no action shot

Premium Coffee. Sorry, no action shot.

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~ by r. mulligan on 2013/10/27.

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