a day in paradise

this shows some of the height, though it's jugs since half way

this shows some of the height, though it’s jugs since half way

For sure.

Taking the long way to paradise Valley, just north of the Chief, via the Tenderfoot Salmon Hatchery, we ran into the same people who we saw parked at the short way parking. We walked on by, across the downed tree over the creek and to the far boulders past the Rock Lady boulder. Though I forgot to consider it, leaving crimps for the end of the day could cost us.

High 40’s in amongst the boulders, almost still, sunny, and crisp. We set out to hit a collection of gems: World’s Best Boulder Problem, 4 stars v4, its sit, 4 stars v8, Storm Troopers, top100 v8, right start called Onion Trooper, 3 stars v9, The Crystal Method (guidebook author’s best of grade, Squamish), top100 v5, Phantom Menace (guidebook author’s favorite problem, Squamish), top100 v6. Sweet!

After finishing warming up on WBBP, we started work on the sit. 2 moves to bump the grade 4 points. It seemed like we weren’t warmed up yet. Many tries later, we both figured out for different reasons how to do the first move with different feet. Very technical. I mostly shot stills as the lighting looked cool, but then I switched to video on the send, botched the camera midway. Jill repeats the middle for filler; I edit.

1 of 4 shots

1 of 4 shots on worlds best boulder problem

lighting was just hitting the two hands

lighting was just hitting the two hands

another angle showing the face

another angle showing the face

I stayed busy shooting

I stayed busy shooting

Onward ho… Crystal Method looked complex, but after a good read, it all seemed so obvious. Though I prefer slopers and pinches, I went for all the good crimps, used my body length, and enjoyed the ride first go. Jill followed suit at the start and did her own thing to top out. This video shows her different sequence but no second camera because I botched the B camera on her 1 run. The problem felt too small for me, though I really liked the setting that the pads obscured.

Time was running out. Shifting pads, setting up cameras was costing us dearly in time. We assumed once the sun sets, lights out on friction. Storm Troopers was my style: slopers, slight overhang, jumping. First move is morpho. Two obvious and very good feet, most nothing else. If you fit you can reach without much cause. It’s not undoable, but it sure seems much harder. The second move is just classical mo. Add in a ton of friction, and it was rather fun. The video is of my second go. I didn’t preview the upper hold and grabbed poorly.

I really liked the look of Onion Trooper, but I hadn’t figured out all the linking moves, and we still wanted to get on Phantom Menace before the moisture settles over everything.

After packing, walking the wet logs out, and getting pads set, things felt fine. It was dark. But the cold fooled us, and every attempt made it more apparent we weren’t going up. We switched to an 8 pointer that actually looked easier, then onto a five. Swimming in a pool of dense personal fog machine effects, we walked out. Will we return? Weather permitting, yes.

~ by r. mulligan on 2013/10/27.

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