not so season’s end… and a new outlook on the finger

So, my last post explained what I did to my finger. After a few days, I realized that what had happened may have been a blessing in disguise. My right middle finger, the one I hyperextended between two holds, was always hampered by swelling, calcium deposits and poor range of motion. What had apparently happened, is my finger now has full extension. It’s still swollen and feels a bit unstable for crimping, but I think it will bounce back real quick… if I take care of it, and give it some rest with limited action. That said, we headed out to josh yesterday for an afternoon and night session.

Jill has always wanted to try a crimp line I had showed others years ago namely Natasha Barnes and Buck Branson, near Khandahar in the Planet X area. Since then, others have jumped on the line including Christina Pilo. Both Natasha and Christina are thin crimping experts, and the line is just overhanging with slightly incut but sharp and thin crimps.

(btw, i’m not sure why i wasn’t capitalizing the first word of a sentence, but from now on I’ll make a concerted effort to use proper punctuation)

So since my happy accident, we’ve gone to josh for two separate day trips, both to the Planet X area. Our first day was at the Love Nest, on Tax/Patriot Day. Here are some images of two problems we did that day which I’d done years ago, not in the guidebook. Both are on a boulder that faces north but sits on top of a flat formation stone on the south side between Snakecharmer and the Woody problem. The backside of the boulder is obvious and looks like crappy grainy rock. 😉 The downclimb is down the backside or jump off to the boulder on the right in the photo below.

Jill is on Mojave Green, v5, having just done the first move

Jill is on Mojave Green, v5, having just done the first move

here is the start, showing the holds. it can be done as in sit or crouching style

here is the start, showing the holds. it can be done in a sit or crouching style

very top is grainy, but easy. all holds had a bit of grain but cleaned up well

very top is grainy, but easy. all holds had a bit of grain but cleaned up well

me on the fa because I added a lower move since doing this problem years ago

me on the fa because I added a lower move since doing this problem years ago

I originally started the problem from approximately this position, seen in the above photo. It’s probably v3 and a 5 from the lower position, or 4 for that matter. Just to the left at the rounded arete (left edge of photo), there’s a low large flat crimp just outside the left edge of the photo frame about the same height as my head if you draw a straight horizontal line left. The foot is just visible at the far left lower frame as a patina edge. The line goes up to the obvious horizontal then moves slightly right finishing up the same holds as Mojave Green, and it’s called The Rattler, v3. (we ran into one just before walking up to this place) There’s another potential line to the left of the arete, and I vaguely remember doing 3 lines before. Maybe not. Regardless, it would start at that horizontal, which wraps around the boulder to the east, or left, face. It’s short. A lower start is possible, but it would be on thin crimps and isn’t very clear a line.

Yesterday, we went to the western end of the main Planet X area, about 100 meters east of the Love Nest. There are several standout older problems from the Stonemaster era called Schooly Penis and Scuttlebug??? (I need to find my Mari Gingery bouldering guide because I think it’s in there) that I really want to repeat. Scuttlebug??? is not in the either of Miramontes’ guidebooks, weird. Anyways, at the OK Corridor, we repeated some of the problems and added a new traverse start to Robert’s problem, Sly and the Family Stone, v5. I thought his line was more like v4 with one move that made it a 4 instead of a 3 because I can’t weight the poor foot properly due to the backside boulder being too close. The line I added was to start at the far right of the face just before the arete on an obvious cut flake at about head high. The traverse felt more like a 5.

Update: I’ve called the right start to Sly and the Family Stone, Sly and Stoned, v5 or 6.

my left hand is on a crimp at the same height but left of the start hold.

my left hand is on a crimp at the same height but left of the start hold.

big reach to the beginning of the stand problem

big reach to the beginning of the stand problem

here is the crux of the traverse section. I'm setting up my left as a pinch to reach out to a sloping dish on the stand.

here is the crux of the traverse section. I’m setting up my left as a pinch to reach out to a sloping dish on the stand.

here jill is trying to repeat the stand

here jill is trying to repeat the stand

Our warmups were on the slab face of the OK Corridor where a 5.9, 5.8 and maybe a v0- resides. I say maybe because between Robert’s old and new guidebook, the location for the 5.8, OK Face, changed from being slightly left of the center of the face to being at the left edge. See the photo below:

jill is seen here climbing the arete onto the left edge of the main slab face.

jill is seen here climbing the arete onto the left edge of the main slab face.

The old Miramontes guidebook (OgB) says the 5.8, OK Face, is somewhere right of where Jill is. I did a line at the right edge of the that large contiguous patina plate just right of where Jill is, and that felt like 5.8 or something (this I believe is the 5.8 mentioned in his old gB). It’s pretty obvious and goes pretty much straight up starting from two sidepulls, left one at stomach height and the right at head height. The (new) NgB calls this the KO Face, v0. I thought it was excellent fun, regardless. The NgB references the 5.8, the OK Face, by saying:

“Patina edges on a slab, found on the far left side of the face, also the downclimb.”

The only line obvious was more like v0-, and it uses the arete and holds on both sides of said arete. Also, we found that by jumping to the far boulder, background boulder behind Jill, and exiting down its backside was the easiest but longest exit. So, for the record, we call the left arete maybe v0-, the center left face, 5.8. A 5.9 is seen on the right edge of the frame and is called the Alright Arete.

Regarding that project I mentioned Jill wanted to try? She didn’t fare well and will return another day. 😦

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~ by r. mulligan on 2013/04/19.

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