obtuse crack/belching breaching barnacle

names, names. so many names. the guidebook was based off the blog post we did on this area (micro formation next to the Gateway boulders on GTR). We had called this crack  the Breaching Barnacle, and its sit, the Belching Breaching Barnacle. it’s the Obtuse Crack now. Moving on, the gB (guidebook, I’ll abbreviate) doesn’t stipulate what the start is, and after jumping on this problem recently to warm up for what we are calling Plato’s Cave, I thought it would be good to mention there are 3 obvious ways to start this line. the highest start is with the left hand on the very high gaston sloper here:

as you can see, Jill isn't starting it this way

as you can see, Jill isn’t starting it this way, she’s just stuck the dyno, swinging out a bit after the shot was taken 

the next way to start, is what we both did, and that is to do the dyno to this high hold. the gB calls it v1, and it only felt like v1 if we started with the left on that high hold. here is the match start we called v3.

here anyone can start it, but using oldschool rules of "stand," pulling up off that high hold would be normal.

here anyone can start it, but using oldschool rules of “stand,” pulling up off that high hold would be normal.

the last way is a sit start, and the only place to sit that makes it seem a grade harder is at the very bottom and slightly to the left on another sidepull/undercling. it’s quite low, making that first move and then matching, before performing two more moves to reach the match stand start, a grade harder, v4.

barely visible is the sit start

barely visible is the sit start at the lower left where a vertical ridge is seen, dark on the left, lighter on the right, directly underneath the shadow of her body.

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~ by r. mulligan on 2013/03/21.

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