mulligan variation of Igneous Ambiance

Jill has been wanting to try the classic Igneous along with the two variants, and on March 4th she sent the Mulligan Variation then repeated Igneous and the Turtle. On February 27th, she sent Igneous in about 2 hours followed by the Turtle sent the next day, first go. After 2 rest days (our tips were pretty trashed from a another project problem at headstone, see below this post) she jumped on the Variant, did everything but a key reach move, then sent it the next day, on the 4th. Both Igneous and the Variant require some extra trickery if you’re short. I shot lots of video, so once I edit it, I’ll post. Jill, as myself, feels Mulligan variant and Igneous are both 7 points, and the Turtle, 6.

A person named Niko on mountainproject.com said a key hold broke preventing that person from sending it. Here is a photo of the broken hold, and it’s previous location:

the broken parts are seen on the boulder on right, and it's location is visible on the right about center.

the broken parts are seen on the boulder on right, and it’s location is visible on the left about center.

Neither myself (on the FA) or Jill used it, so hopefully Niko can rework the beta and send it in the future.

about to reach the thin crimp prior to the crux sequence.

about to reach the thin crimp prior to the crux sequence.

the first of 3 tough moves.

the first of 3 tough moves.

the second move (note the right toe on a smear so she can reach that side pull)

the second move (note the right toe on a smear so she can reach that side pull)

These shots are of some warmups we climbed that neither of us had previously done. The area is called the Land of the Lost Boulder (courtesy mountainproject.com) They’re actually enjoyable, but the ratings didn’t agree with us.

Chorizo Tacos, v4, midway on the traverse part. it finishes on Taco Stand, v2.

Chorizo Tacos, v4, midway on the traverse part. it finishes on Taco Stand, v2.

this shot shows the straight up well, Chorizo Tacos and the it's stand, Taco Stand, well (jill on it)

this shot shows the straight up well, Chorizo Tacos and the it’s stand, Taco Stand, well (jill on it)

This line is not in the book but left of Chorizo Taco or Taco Stand.

This line is not in the book but left of Chorizo Tacos, v4, starting at Chorizo Tacos but going straight up.

We thought both were a grade easier, 3 and 1, and maybe the straight up that started at Chorizo Tacos was 4 points, maybe. Compared to the now downgraded Flight Attendant, v4, both lines felt easier. Decent problems.

Update: here are some more images:

crux move with short person beta.

crux move with short person beta.

match moves before the heel hook to top

match moves before the heel hook to top

 

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~ by r. mulligan on 2013/03/17.

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