a lowball with bite

Here is the low ball traverse project that I came oh so close to doing. I stuck the crux dyno (see below), then after reaching the juggy sloper, reset my hand and blew off the sloper. I got bitten. It’s grainy, but has excellent moves. The traverse section is pretty good rock, but the topout is on grainy stone; nevertheless, it cleaned up well with no issues. I’m guessing 8 or 9 points. We’ll see…

BTW, I’m calling it Le Sel de la Terre (Salt of the Earth). It’s so font-like, but not really, I mean not in texture or feel, only in movement.

the start matches at the left hand.

the start matches at the left hand.

this is the crux dyno of Le Sel de la Terre

this is the crux dyno of Le Sel de la Terre

a different burn, but this is where I blew off

a different burn, but this is where I blew off… think fingers digging into that grain, both hands, for a few inches! Ouch.

This formation is called The Sacred Land, or something like that (our guidebook is with a friend as I write). There’s a high concentration of aboriginal evidence, so I’d recommend being extra sensitive. This project is south facing, on a sloping rock ramp with nothing to indicate our ancestors wanted to hang out under it, and it’s toasty even in 70 degree weather. We warmed up around this small formation and at a nearby formation called The Burial Grounds.

At first, we were a bit surprised given the ratings in the book, but once we worked out the (few) moves, it ended up being fine. On my last day trying the project, I felt powered out, so instead of just suffering, I decided to try to do a sit to one of the warmups. Not having the guidebook means I can’t tell you all the names (I’ll update once I get the book back), but the two in pictures are v2 (below), and v3, Arrowhead Lunge. An awesome mantel, The Stepladder Mantel, to the right of the v2 and is a worthy run at v0, though it’s probably like 5.8 (sorry, but the mantels in the big ditch are so much more serious and rated easier or same).

Update: So the one pictured below with the high undercling is called the Arrowhead Undercling. Since there is an Arrowhead Lunge, calling the Undercling a sit is a bit confusing. I’ll just call it the Arrowhead Undercling Low.

the guidebook says to start on the undercling. as you can see, it's a reach.

the guidebook says to start on the undercling. as you can see, it’s a reach. Once on, nearly the crux, it’s a cool move sequence to the top.

This problem, above, is the one with the low holds chalked up. I’m sure it’s been done previously. Here is a video clip to show how I sent it, guessing v5 or 6 if you can reach that upper sloper below the lip.

here is the right start crimp. the left isn't really better.

here is the right start crimp of The Arrowhead Lunge. the left crimp isn’t really better.

this is how we started, then bumped to an crimp half way up then to the top

this is how we both started the Arrowhead Lunge, then bumped to an crimp half way up then to the top

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~ by r. mulligan on 2013/03/17.

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