The Shipwreck boulders… and this past weekend.

This might be old news, but…we came across this bouldering around the So High boulders on my old project now called the Mulligan Project boulder. The sign is posted right in front of Turboflange, v3, and Block Party, v3, on The Shipwreck collection of boulders. I had previously heard from Robert that Shipwreck would be closed, but it’s actually his reference name for the two boulders (split apart) that comprises both the Shipwreck problem (on the other side of where the sign is) and Turboflange, etc. The artwork that exists is pretty much underneath the start of Block Party. Does this mean the boulder problems Shipwreck, Fistful of Walnuts, and the short slab problems to the left of Fistful (including my low v8 sit start) are off limits too? The rules state anything within 50 feet of the Pictograph are off limits. Ouch!

pictured is the pictograph with the sign in the distance.

pictured is the pictograph with the sign in the distance.

Here is a link to the mention of the sign on Mountainproject.com:

to the left of the sign are the problems I mentioned above. Beyond this photo lies the Mulligan Project boulder and So High to it's left.

to the left of the sign are the problems I mentioned above. Beyond this photo lies the Mulligan Project boulder and So High to it’s left.

The previous weekend (Dec. 23-24), we jumped on the project, and it still feels hard. Super thin, but very doable. The two other problems that Wills Young put up, Turnstyle, v7, and Unnamed, v8, were very chalked. The guidebook rates both at v9. Not. The left line might be, but it’s more scary technical then actually hard. The project itself didn’t look like it was chalked for sending as the key tick marks were all over for the other two problems, but not the low hard start of the project.

I'm doing the second move to the intermediate before bumping again to that brown dot above... then the crux. Left start hold is visible between my head and right shoulder on a horizontal

I’m doing the second move to the intermediate before bumping again to that brown dot above… start of the crux. Left start hold is visible between my head and right shoulder on a horizontal.

We actually spent the day on super crimpy hard projects, ugh! Previous to this, we tried another project near the Miledi boulder (just beyond the west entrance of the park), and it too is awesome but super difficult start. No pictures, but we will go back soon. The only problem was we got chased away by bees! And they were acting like the classic killer bees super into our body sweat or anything with water. Two bees would constantly try and land on us after sustained buzzing inches from our clothing. After our warmup, we tried the project with too much attention from 3 bees. I thought of a great idea (stupid actually) of putting our water bottles out away from us. Shortly after, there were maybe 20-30 bees all over the bottles, and a few more bugging us. THEN… in immaculate stupid form, I poured some water out for them to congregate around. Big mistake. Now maybe a hundred bees???!!! After a few more tries, we got our stuff together, knocked the bees off the bottles, grabbed them, and headed out fast!

Fast forward to the past 4 days, and with cold temps, constant breezes, it was hard to get serious. The first two days were spent on one problem here:

sustained crimp moves to a crux finish with a big move to the top....

sustained crimp moves to a crux finish with a big move to the top….

Here is how I start the problem.

Here is how I start the problem.

super fun but grainy top... hence the name: Grains of Wrath, v3.

super fun but grainy top… hence the name: Grains of Wrath, v3.

here, Jill is about to NOT commit to the top... a bit scary for the hands.

here, Jill is about to NOT commit to the top… a bit scary for the hands.

Jill on the super fun, Crimp of Gold, v1.

super fun crimp problem with a matched start at where my right hand is.

super fun crimp problem with a matched start at where my right hand is.

This problem (The Red Pony) above has two exits, left, which is obvious, or a more sustained finish exiting slightly right to a high crimp.

sunset yesterday.

sunset yesterday.

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~ by r. mulligan on 2013/01/02.

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