It has come to my attention that Palm-o-Granite, v7, is actually called Arrive Come on Vacation, Leave on Probation, and was originally put up by Matt Beebe Marcos Nunez witnessed by John Gibson Jon Gipson, and told to me by a friend I only know his first name, John. I spelled Gibson’s name phonetically, so if it’s different, I did spell the name wrong; my apologies. I apologize. Matt is known to put up tons of problems without much recorded.  Marcos, Matt Beebe, Scott Cosgrove, and Jon Gipson, among others, had their own “crew” of sorts and have put up many problems that, in the near future, I can hopefully add to the list I’ve compiled here on the blog. Jon mentioned in a comment on the Contact page, he lived in Joshua Tree from ’97 to 2003 when he recorded many first. Luckily, he did record this, and I look forward to “discovering” these problems! Of course the same can be said for the Stone Masters… we may never know… publicly, that is, the many problems and the credit that goes with them.

On a different note, what I’ve considered something special about top crags around the world, is the sheer number of problems throughout the grades that offer boulderers “training” circuits, warmups and unique problems that are stellar not for some retarded star rating but for the beauty and simplicity of its movement. Joshua Tree has that same potential, but within each locale, oftentimes, there aren’t many other problems (the exception is around the Hidden Valley campground, and near Cap Rock and Ryan campground). I’ve found those problems exist, just not as we might assume they’d look compared to other crags like Bishop or Hueco. The type of climbing or style of movement in Josh is more akin to the Gres and the Grit of Europe. Grain here is the big issue that scares many people away. Add to that the high friction ability (higher even compared to Grit) that can suppress ratings, or appear to suppress ratings, and you can get a volatile situation where what one assumes they “should” climb coupled with scary or dicey topouts and technical moves NOT based on pulling, and you can get a fright moment that scares the non-well-rounded climbers away with verbose negatives and attitudes that protect their ego. Of course other climbers like Ethan Pringle don’t have this problem (think Ethan’s The Peanut, though he doesn’t like it for the grain, and I agree, but the movement is way cool). He climbs and accepts what it is, walks away with another day of bouldering done.


~ by r. mulligan on 2012/12/25.

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