Return to Josh… finally.

On Sunday, Jill Carpenter sent Blood Diamond, v10. Prior to Charlie Andrews-jubelt firing the FA last year, Jill had reached the left incut “jug” at the 3rd move. She then fell, losing the FA to Charlie shortly after. This time, our first time back since the FA, she wasn’t going to blow it. The move is fairly big, but most importantly, it’s awkward to get your feet setup to cross over to a real jug slightly further on in the crack. Dan Mills did the known second ascent making her’s the 3rd known ascent. This may be the 2nd ascent, but when we arrived, the line was super chalked including some chalk ball plastering on the crux left crimp. Congratulations to Jill for her first v10, but she won’t confirm the grade considering she hasn’t climbed it previously. Scott had just sent two 9’s in bishop a week before and thought it could be solid for the grade. As for me? Oh god, that crux crimp is small and the bicycle move to match sooooo awkward!

blood diamond JC1

matching on the send

blood diamond jc2

jill was starting to get tired, so this send was more awesome as she just fought her way to the end

As you can see from the second image, the reach is fairly long, and looking at how she grabs the crack crimp, she’s actually stopping by hooking her thumb on the edge as if it’s a gaston then readjusts it to a crimp.

On our approach, we stopped at a boulder called the Dreads Boulder that Aron Couzens, Jill and myself had originally visited a few seasons ago. It’s very close to the Brown Boulder that Blood Diamond is on, maybe 200 meters west. Scott and I repeated a problem I had put up called Left Dread. I had originally rated it a 5 or 6, and when we repeated it Sunday, we thought 7. I’m not sure it’s 7 and favor calling it 6 for now. It’s a super good line on excellent rock. Around the left corner of the “Dreads” feature of the boulder ( a collection of loose blocks that appear as hanging dreads) is another line that awaits a sit or low start. Originally I called the stand v1, and in retrospect wonder if I was on drugs!!!! V1? WTF? The sit is probably at least 7 but more likely 8 or 9. Scott was almost doing the first move static, but the position is powerfully awkward and hard to keep the foot on. He’s touching the hold then everything explodes off! Tension testing for sure. The stand pulls off a bad sloper and good side pull, but the feet are sorely lacking. I remember Aron repeating it and not questioning the rating for the stand, so for now it’s still v1.

crux reach that jill had done on her warmup before doing blood diamond. photo sucks  cause it doesn't show much

Dread Left, v6?, crux reach that jill had done on her warmup before doing blood diamond. photo sucks cause it doesn’t show much

matching on the two crimps before the big reach. the problem sit starts down low on an obvious sidepull feature in a shallow corner

matching on the two crimps before the big reach. the problem sit starts down low on an obvious sidepull feature in a shallow corner

Here is a video of Dreads Left, something I threw together to show the line better than my rambling words. The camera work isn’t very good, but it gets the point across.

One last note: below is the photo of me on the Mulligan Arete (I never gave a name, so anytime you see my name attached to a problem it’s because Robert didn’t have a name…). The guidebook is incorrect on the description stating:

Start at mini-jugs on an overhang to the left of the arete. Burst to the hanging arete and power up on slopers. 14ft tall.

The v4 starts with the right hand on the arete wherever you can reach, it’s a high start, and the left on a sloping crimp, your choice. The photo below shows me at the crux after I’ve moved slightly right from the “mini-jugs.” This version, a lower left start is probably more like 6-8, but I’ve not sent it yet. It’s super stellar climbing, but Jon or myself never sent it with this start because it sits in the sun all day, I digress.

mulligan arete low start rm

One more thing, the arete in the photo looks very low angle. That’s the very wide angle lens pointing upwards that’s causing it to appear real low angle. I’m also not to sure about the 14 feet height reference because this climb continues on a slab past that point in the photo where the skyline shows it appearing to topout. Also, the guidebook photo shows the line leaving the arete midway, but I actually move all the way to the top of the patina then turn the arete to the right and climb the slab. The lip of the roof is just over 7 feet, I think.

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~ by r. mulligan on 2012/12/04.

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