Symbiose at 95.2

I’ve edited some footage showing me climbing a cool roof problem. There’s an extension that goes at 8a called La Traversée de Symbiose. I shot Thierry Plaud, a beausard, on the extension and included some images of that too. He didn’t send it, but it’s just a matter of time as he falls reaching the slopers off the heel hook.

This is the crux of the traverse before the roof finish. That right hand is a vertical slot. In typical bleausard fashion, he doesn’t use a pad for this part as he’s got it so ruthlessly wired.

Cool moves on a rather committing heel hook.

He sticks this and then fell going for the farthest sloper after matching…

Here are some images of Jill on it. It’d be sweet if she sends as it’s got some long moves for her size.

At 5′ 4″, she can reach the crimp, a rather critical move to sending this.

this is her crux so far…

…and this is what was happening. Her shoulder was far enough extended that she kept trying to pull too much with the arm instead of a stronger bicycle with her right toe against the left heel. Basically, her heel is sliding off as her lower half slacks a bit because the right toe is only pulling to her core and not compressing against the left heel. Make sense? Oh, she also has to elevate her center to make the reach, whereas Thierry and I only had to mostly hold the position.

Here’s a better angle of her position. Next trip…

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~ by r. mulligan on 2012/08/10.

One Response to “Symbiose at 95.2”

  1. […] Symbiose at 95.2 […]

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