7 weeks without AM rain then this morning arrived…

Note: some of the formatting is messed up for unknown reasons as I’m working off a tethered iphone 2 with an sfr iphone unlimited internet plan. It’s decent (but spendy at 24 euros for only 20 days) if you have an iphone 3, but WordPress is not working well with the 2. once i get to the ubiquitous Micky D’s, and their free internet, I’ll fix the formatting.

Today was supposed to be our last climbing day before heading up to the UK to visit a friend. Today ends approximately 7 weeks of good weather without morning rain. Today was after a rest day planning to head to Gorges Du Houx, so Jill could try and send Ecaille de Lune, a 7c project, and myself jump on Gargantoit and De la Terre A la lune (awkward fall, but my long time friend, a local bleausard, guarantees me I won’t split my head open on the boulders sitting around, ugh, it’s such a sweet line). I guess good fortune is always ending too soon. On the sunny side of things, we get our second 2 day rest, and so we hope to try it all again tomorrow, Sunday, where forecasts are for 60% chance of rain, then onto the UK and grit.

On Thursday, Jill worked L’Angle Bens, and I sent El Poussah. Because weather had turned to predictable afternoon rain, we ended up going 3 days on. Wednesday, I sent L’Angle Bens…3 times, after finally figuring out the setup moves to jump to the crimp. It’s an awesome line… up next is L’Angle Parfait. They say it’s perfect. 😉

trying to figure out a way to get the left hand on the upper arete pinch... key to reaching the high crimp.

finally reaching the upper pinch, jill has to figure out the feet for the short pop to the crimp. feet are grim, especially if you're short. hmmm, reacurring theme.

here, I'm posing for the camera after sending the high start of El Poussah. On the send, she didn't get any in focus, but she was using a legacy Olympus OM 50mm f1.4 at f2 with about a foot or so of room to work with.

Here I'm trying to set up for the cross dyno to a decent dish on an early attempt. No toe or heel hook here, just straight up system training technique. So old school!

We have video of my ascent of L’Angle Bens, Pokeman (at Gorge aux Chats) and Jill on Banlieue Nord (Direct… the finish of the traverse), but I’m working on a Macbook Air with minimal drive space, so I have to finish 3 videos of very early climbing before I can post those videos. Jill’s BN send is cool cause she has to do the last big move without an obvious large foot… 3 days of footage. We’ll see. For now, we’ll stick with stills. Here is Jill posing after sending Carnage, in Bas Cuvier–excellent send as she did the first 3 moves in excellent fashion, and no jumping from the ground. Minutes later it rained.

just about to land the crimp without jumping from the ground, though in Font it's considered of equal style.

the second move off the toe jam (or sorts), height makes the next two moves more challenging. We watched a kid hike the sit start up to this move then failing like 3 or 4 times cause you need something for your feet to hang that sidepull sloper.

Update: It’s just after 1pm, and it’s stopped raining. Do we dare race through the forest again in hopes of finding dry stone? This reminds me of 14 years ago where in 30 days we got 1 excellent day and maybe 5 or so crappy days of climbing in.

Update2: here are two more images of Jill’s first day on carnage.

first day on carnage, JC setting up for the first move, stand start.

loosing the feet...

update3: and here are two more images of el poussah from the previous day, just before it rained.

a closeup of the sloper just as the rain started... note the dish in the upper left corner. the image is slightly soft, sorry.

here is a shot of the actual send doing the crossover move. It's soft, but probably more interesting then seeing me hanging out on a sloper. I almost lost the foot, but didn't loose the turnout control, and my forearm almost knocked my hand off the sloper! the heel or toehook is definitely better at avoiding this.


~ by r. mulligan on 2012/04/21.

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