yet another Koge cousin… the traverse

As I mentioned in the previous post, the Koge Traverse a direct contender for a quality traverse with Relic. Robert gives Relic 4 stars. Hmmm. This line is at least a star better. I think Relic is 2-3 stars; I’d give KT 4 stars. The finish is first rate, the whole line is more unique on top quality stone, and the landing is flat. It’s longer too, but that’s from memory. Jon and I also think Relic is v8, and I was guessing The Koge traverse is about as hard.

the traverse starts on a big ledge at the far right side of the face. He's about to start the first crux sequence.

This face now has a left stand, a right low stand, a left sit and a right to left traverse. There might be a low right sit, but the moves are big and one hold is very poor, sandwiched between the two big moves. We shot so-so video, so I did a quick edit to give you an idea of what it’s like. Jill also climbed on it a bunch, but we some how didn’t get much video. 😦 Next time!

The crimps are stellar into the undercling part then the moves become unique. I was super psyched to send it cause it really emphasized mental focus. Then there’s the Echo Arete; I need to work more on intense energy. Ugh. But I think both Jill and I can do it once we get that match move down more solid. Here’s video of the traverse:

Back at the Shark Fin Arete, we added a few new lines, or at least repeated lines that aren’t in the guidebook. One in particular is pretty cool, actually two, a descent. 😉 On the Shark Fin boulder, we did a run and jump just to the right of the arete. It’s got a sweet “stick” move after the run to get to the sloper. Then a mantel follows but one with a high step. We’ve been “cruzin'” around in a new pair of Evolv Cruzers and also did the run and jump with them that we called, Shark Jump, j1 v3:

Jon was able to repeat a line I had done a bit ago that I thought I’d covered in the past, or thought I did. It’s only v6ish but very challenging, and it sits about 30 yards to the south starting from a huge undercling and going right and up a shallow ramp with two distinct black intrustions about half way up. I’ll find that entry or update you on it and others in the area.


~ by r. mulligan on 2012/01/12.

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