Roadside on GTR

After visiting the Equinox area previously, and with Jon away for the recent holiday, we lost motivation to hike back out and ended up wandering around the boulders on the east side just north of the Peanut. And north of the Peanut is the Shark Fin area (actually the Shark Fin is just north of a formation we don’t know the name to, if it has one) which is opposite an obvious turnout on the right past a previous turnout for Equinox/Slashface, also on the right. I’d wandered through these boulders before and even eyed the very same faces and cracks, but this time they just seemed worth trying. The crack, which is in a video below, is obvious from the road. Maybe it’s been done, maybe not, but I knocked off a fair bit of dark gray surface rock that left lighter patches (an indicator it may not have been climbed). Also, the climbing surface within the crack is very good save a few spots low that had a bit of grain (again, odd to be there for such good rock had it been climbed before). The feet are not good, mostly smearing, and a mid height boulder is it’s only drawback that interferes with a move or two midway. Most likely it would be climbed from the boulder where Jill is crouched. On my first go, I dabbed on a pad on top of the boulder, and my second go dabbed on a 1″ pad at the lip of the boulder. My third go was close, but I avoided the “detritus.”

seen during the day, the line would be quite good without that boulder, and a bit heady. as it is, it's a good line. Roadside traverse, v2?.

That day, the crack was the third line done, forth tried. Earlier during daylight hours, we focused on 3 lines on a boulder I’m calling the Koge boulder. A little bit of history on the name: back in the day, 1950’s, my dad was fixing IBM (I’ve Been Moved) military computers on Maui, and a fellow workmate, Harold Uehara, a surfer, was so darkened by the sun surfing that the locals nicknamed him Koge, or burnt rice. So, as you will see in the videos and stills, the inside face is quite exquisite patina the color of, well, burnt rice! We warmed up on the right edge or arete. This sure could have been done, but the arete was flaky. I’m calling it the Koge arete, but truth is it’s basically a slab with sidepulls as the video will show. Not in the video is the start, an easy mantel-like move to a huge, flat ledge. It’s good stuff.

Jill about to commit to the face off the ledge, Koge arete, v0.

... ready to slab climb. It could also be 5.9. We had no idea. the landing is flat save a 1 foot tall boulder about 3 feet back from the lip.

This next line was first climbed as a stand, then as a sit.

Update: Because I canned the two videos of the Koge face showing the stand, you don’t get to see a kufiyya in action, just a pair of hoodies when Jon joined us. Originally, I wrote about Jill and I climbing on this boulder on a previous night; my new beanie was too heavy and intense, so I used a kufiyya instead that I’d used during the daytime to block the sun. When we returned a few days later with Jon, we warmed up on the Roadside traverse, v2?, shooting (sorta) better footage of Jill sending (again, originally we had video of myself and a kufiyya but shot only from one angle):

And here is the Koge face from the sit (stand is maybe v4, and sit v7??). 

day time shot of the line going up and left, through an undercling flake and past a thin seam/crack, towards the sunlight

Here is a much higher quality large file if you are interested:

Jill did well on what seemed to be reachy moves to an undercling; she now has to work out that long reach to the lip! Having removed the two video clips, I replaced it with this FA piece we edited (we had better footage of Jon, but … messed up the topout footage). It’s a fun video of our efforts.

Another problem, that we may not go back to, but worth noting (maybe ???) is this power move problem. That hold with my hand on it, is way under to the right behind Jill’s right shoulder (second photo) under the belly, and the move she’s trying is huge. Doing both moves to get to a big crimp past the top left of the photo would require specific contrived moves only because there’s not enough room to actually climb it naturally with any swing. It was also an epically short 50 meters to reach.

probably strong enough as I hung off it.

I mentioned the Shark Fin area also, and this is another place we forgot to cover, having a few good lines done, including a tall mean corner that Aron did then KD, and myself. A tall slab Aron did, and a blunt corner I added, and two other cool lines. I’ll add a Timeline piece soon. 😉

Oh, one more thing. This next problem resides on the far left of the Koge boulder up against another boulder, left of the face problem. Jon climbed it, sorta. He dabbed twice, and we walked away. Feel free to do the problem for the first time. The video doesn’t show it well, but he brushes the left boulder maybe twice with his clothes.


~ by r. mulligan on 2011/12/08.

One Response to “Roadside on GTR”

  1. sweet Rob…Hit me up mang. Looks fun..

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