two new lines.

We’ve had an irregular schedule lately, and our time outside has been erratic. Monday was our latest foray to josh with good weather and no one around. We lacked motivation, though, and our morning barely allowed us time to get breakfast at The Natural Sisters cafe in Joshua Tree. Crag start time: 1pm! Temps were in the 60’s, dry (as usual), hardly any wind, and simply awesome with most of the flowers fully blooming. We started to wander without direction, literally and ended up checking out a hanging crack I really liked. It was too grainy and a poor landing area, and I ended up at a boulder on the southern flank of a small formation due south of the New World Order bolted route. I was fixated on a face with real nice stone, and then realized the line was probably worth doing.

The fall is bad, at least part of it. If you fall too far back, you can hit a stalagmite-like boulder point above head height. Then there’s the low boulder slab about 2 feet back from the base creating a shelf to hit. The crux is the middle (it starts from the boulder slab reaching an incut about 8 feet up. The height is deceiving. It looks to be 18+ but with that low slab, appears more like 15- feet. Either way, the top move is simply stunning, taking a mini roof lip pinch on an ok foot out to a jug sidepull at about 3 feet below the summit. Check out my left hand above my head:

Bats in the Belfry, v3 or 4 but scarrry.this shot shows that Im pinching the lip and starting to stand up...

the token (near) topout photo. the top is grainy, but everythings there. also, theres an obvious nob to stand on but looks like it will break, I didnt use it but kicked it several times... its still there.

I tried a stand start, from the real ground, and came close. The start hold is real small and bad, the right foot almost nothing, one of the two crystals broke, dang, and the left wall cuts out to a roof. I was touching sidepull just below the start incut I used for the boulder stand start. Here are some shots of the effort:

cute grimace Im sporting

check out my left foot thats on nothing; Im actually scumming with my left knee on the roof lip or Im falling; when I tried the move, I couldnt feel anything distinct with my left foot, so I assume this is what it looks like and not falling until a split second later. 😉

Jill added a short mantel line about 20 meters from Bats in the Belfry. At v0, it makes for a nice warmup, Steeple Chase.

underside (meaning where my back rests while in transport) of the pad with cholla joints or pads and miscellaneous spines.

Note: This above image is pretty typical of bouldering beyond the popular areas. I tossed the pad down on what looked like rock slabs and sand with some plant detritus scattered about. I didn’t look at the undersides of the boulders, but had I, I would have found the signs of  pack rats and similar rodents that use cholla joints to protect their nests. In removing them, don’t scrape them with something as they’re already dead and break off easily. All you end up with is a bunch of needles with barbs sticking you once you have pressure up against the pad. Take a thin dead stem and flick them off, being careful of where you flick them! Don’t forget to pull out the individual spines. It’s rather time consuming.

Sitting barely visible from the desert floor, is a face with a roof capping it. In front of the face is another boulder of almost equal height. The line starts between the two and follows the roof base along a crack. This line is really cool. The start move makes it really special. Though relatively easy, and it is the crux, I think, the first move is very unnerving since below is an 8+ foot steep slot to get wedged into. It starts with a thin sidepull edge:

The Paradox of Learning, v3ish, Jill showing the start holds. that pad shes sitting on is mostly symbolic except for the initial impact of a fall; otherwise, you fall immediately down into the slot, sorry no images.

doing the mental paradox move, or crux.

mostly good holds

the crack disappears from just past the left hand then you reach over and mantel out, either directly up, as I did, or out further to the right, as jill exited.

After we returned to the van, we headed up to the hueco problem nearer the main road. The good news is I was able to do most all the moves except the topout. The bad news is it’s a bit hard. But that’s also the good news, so really there is no bad news. After leaving the caveish area that the hueco problem is in, I walked around and decided to do a fun problem in my approach shoes and called it Fishlips, v0. It’s actually on the backside of the hueco problem. No images, sorry. Here is a neat parting shot for you.

bats feeding just after sunset over the road

~ by r. mulligan on 2011/04/20.

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