a new tall line and a repeat of the UDPC

On Sunday, we returned to Upside Down Pineapple Cake where Jill sent it. Not easily, nor difficultly, but a send it is. Basically, she altered subtly her movement on a key set of heel hook moves that made her pull even harder and the harder she pulled the more exacerbated it got, the move that is. It was also sunny, but overcast, so I was able to get more images, assuming you’re not totally bored of the line by now. 😉 Hey, it’s daylight, so it takes on a slightly new perspective… slightly.

start of the crux sequence

foreground boulder is the battle boulder and I'm facing approximately northnortheast

Jill's crux for sure... she kept trying to flag out past her heel hook and pull to the sloper

In between rests, I went behind the battle boulder towards another one resting on its west side. Though from the desert floor, it looks small, the boulder’s northwest side goes “down” quite far into the jumble of boulders. The line is called Kiss Kiss Bang Bang (I haven’t checked if it’s been used), v1?, about 30 feet or a bit less. Midway, I climb “over” a boulder and finish the top with it as the landing. The top is easy though.

that's me down in that hole, I've already climbed several moves to a good horizontal

the angle is quite pleasant. above that boulder, the climbing gets even easier

the line trends left until I reach that left sloping side and finally top out on the right side of the peak

a lower extended move left

lots of big reaches and high steps.

These next few images are from the send:

the calm before the storm, by the time she relearned the move, fatigue was setting in... maybe 15 tries easily

about to stick it. I added a bit of strobe to perk it up.

the last hard move, or so she thought

getting real. that last move, both her feet cut loose! here, she is wanting it. way cool

we finally ventured over to another project and tried the first few moves:

sweet rock and face

that left hand hold worked well until it broke...

a second before the left handhold breaks

As you can see, the rock is super clean, but the line trends left over the boulder from where these shots were taken. Also, the downclimb will either be reversing the top moves or dropping off the shorter backside with a worse fall zone; nevertheless, I think it’s more smoke and mirrors than actual real threat. Not the fall zone, it’s very real, but the risk of falling. This start section, through to the feature in the upper left corner of the last image, could be the crux.

Advertisements

~ by r. mulligan on 2011/03/28.

3 Responses to “a new tall line and a repeat of the UDPC”

  1. sun, who needs sun when theres plenty of Coors light and ammo, and Sarah Palin is really starting to speak to my core values! Ahh, I’m kidding I’m kidding.

  2. Dude!!! Jealous, jealous, jealous. Iam dying for the desert right now and would kill someone if they mentioned Josh to my face. In case you were wondering it rains here. I would trade all my bishop three stars for a day in Josh, ok maybe not all of them.

    • Dude, it’s been a good year so far. Would have been psyched to have you down here. Put down the weapon and sneak away for a week before the season is done. But seriously, conditions are super good: the sun is a bit warm but the rock is still cold and the air temps are chilly. Sorry to rub it in. Rain can suck if it’s your norm for our daily sunshine. The josh weather right now is like walking and climbing in a perfect liquid solution of air where sitting or climbing or hiking all seem so equally enjoyable. eck… I’ll shut up.

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s

 
%d bloggers like this: