Timeline: 12-2010: bay area visitors

December of last year isn’t exactly something from the past as I’ve been labeling for the Timeline, but it’s late enough that I decided it was no longer worth treating as current. Hey, it’s from last year. 😉

As the winter rolled along, we continued to focus our attention on the South Geology Tour Road area that I’m now calling the Inlier boulders… because… they’re sorta like outliers in that they reside away from the prominent areas, but not, and they reside between the East Virgin Isles/Islands and the main groups around New World Order, Lecklinski Cracks, The Peanut, Dyke Face and others. The Inliers exist east of the road and basically west of the Dyke Face boulder, and while looking east, the highest point along the skyline is exactly where this new line that Ben Polanco sent is situated. It’s called There’s Something About Chicky, v7. It’s an excellent line and only one of many we did that day. About Chicky isn’t over when you reach the top, but I don’t have any photos… If I can get some, I’ll update this post with them. This was on December 12.

not the best shot but it starts at the sidepulls next to his left foot, There’s Something About Chicky, v7

And here is a cool mantel:

Here, Ben is sending a rather powerful mantel, Ben’s Mantel, v6 or 7.

Once the grains subsided, the mantel went down.

The Yardharm face (below) has an excellent and committing reach off that lower left hand! Solid foot, off vert, clean. The fall zone isn’t obvious, but it is a sorta hole that drops off maybe 2 feet lower below Ben’s right foot in the image below (Ben is the one with the dark t-shirt on the lower left) wtih a 1-2 foot block below and right of Jill’s position (climber).

though easyish, v0?, it’s very worthy the effort… bad landing, just committing

Yardharm, v0?, it’s sorta kinda like Yardarm.

This boulder in the picture below is down the hill, east, of There’s Something About Chicky, the boulder pile seen from the road on the horizon. Am I confusing you yet? It gets worse.

nearing the top via Jill’s traffic control

There are 2 vertical cuts in the rock, Cat’s Claw, v4? Ben’s send.

The climb in the above images begins off that patina corner jutting out into the white grains, below his feet. The patina at the right just before the sunny rock is the start of a sweet arete that summits to the right way past the right margin called Jill’s Arete. The steep slab below his feet is a traversing undercling that makes for another fine line beginning on that same protruding patina flake; it exits left and around the corner from below his feet, called Orion’s Belt, v3. Now imagine this traversing undercling as a smiley face whose right lip continues to form an arete right of the image, and whose right eye is the face shown above. Ok, a bit out there, but these next images will hopefully put it into perspective.

below the climber is the start for this slab, Cat Face, 5.8, and the Orbital, that follows the shallow roof feature to the patina on the right frame edge. the above image shows Cat’s Claw, the climb that follows the two vertical, shallow slashes along the right margin of photo

Here I’m sending the FA of Jill’s Arete, v4 or 5.

near the crown of the traverse, summits to the right of the crown, Jill’s Arete, v4 or 5.

Here I’m in the middle of sending the Orbital, v5? It starts at the left blunt slab arete and goes into the undercling and continues past where I am then onto Jill’s Arete up and right.

The Orbital, v5?, is an excellent line with something like 25 moves!

Ben sending the Orion Belt, v3. it starts at the patina flake start of Cat’s Claw, behind him, the slab problem that goes straight up.

the traverse isn’t a given… Jill working the blind match

making the final reach then continue to the slab

Check out the moon in the background! You can see the Orbital, left to right, Cat face, Cat’s Claw, center, Jill’s arete, finish not visible, and Orion’s Belt, center to left and up the Cat face.

No moon, Just kidding. but you can see here almost the entire traverse minus the right frame edge topout on Jill’s Arete. The light boulder in the foreground is actually about 5 feet from the traverse (with the gap being a jumble of smaller boulders)

Winding back one week, December 5, Jon, Jill and I visited other boulders in the area, including 4 short lines just left of the Yardharm boulder, behind Ben’s Mantel. On this boulder, there’s a long black intrusion that makes for an excellent sloping pinch about .5 meters long. One line takes the pinch and goes straight up, the second takes it goes left then up, the third line starts to the right of the pinch and around the blunt corner climbing the slab via a low matched sit-style start off a black intrusion (see second image below, lower right corner), and the fourth is on the far right end from the third and climbs a “hanging groove” and arete to the top. Here are some really lousy images. 🙂

Jill is attempting the Black Slug Direct, v4?

she’s reaching for the sloping mantel “holds”

From the black slug feature, Black Slug Left moves left, seen here, then up…

Jon is finishing the mantel on Black Slug Left

Slug Block, v2. starts with right hand down and right on arete

… and further back in time we go! Earlier in the day, we’re at another cool boulder similar in nature to the black slug above but much bigger. As of now, there are 3 tall slabs on the southwest and west side, another 4 medium length or short lines that climb black intrusions of various sizes, and another line that’s just a short but neato sidepulling thing:

committing to the crux reach atop West Face Center on the Knob boulder

doin’ the Noknob

Jill on her own line, Broken Knob, v0- Correction: this is knobby knees, broken knob starts further to the right in a shallow depression

Jill on Knobby Knees, v3

Jon on Knobby Knees, v3

Jill surmounting the crux of Big Knob, v3. it starts under the roof, is short, and actually really nasty and sweet. really.

on the first move of Big Knob

jon FAing Grime of the Decade, v1

Grime of the Decade

Jill attempting Grime of the Century, v3, a reachy problem with cool moves on that “classic josh grain”

Grime of the Century starts lower at about head high on a horizontal and a right sdiepull.

the start is at Jill’s hip where the tail end of a horizontal crack is visible to the left of her hip

the big reach on Grime of the Decade, v1

Rob topping out on Around the Clove Stick, v0. the right area between the patina has no line, the right side of the right patina is Knobby Knees, and far right is Broken Knob and Big Knob

Around the Clove Stick, in the above image, starts on a head high knob barely visible left of that large patina patch on the face below the climber. Behind this boulder is the Grains and Things boulder with Grimes of the Century/Decades. In the distance is the Malapai cinder cone and GTR with the #7 turnout near the left picture edge.


~ by r. mulligan on 2011/03/18.

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