Upside down above the battle…

Ok, another bizarre blog title, but it actually makes sense as it relates to the last problem done in the evening (it was 27° at  8:30pm when we arrived at van) on this obscure underside of a boulder sitting, by a foot or so, just off the hugely flat Battle boulder’s uphill side. At the lowest point, matched on an irregular crimp, my heel is cammed above and behind me by almost 2 feet on the boulder’s backside. I originally made most all the key moves on the climb on my 2nd go with that same heel cam, but I couldn’t let go and cut loose. After many variations and then finally heeding Jill’s idea of moving the heel earlier on, I unlocked part of the secret move. The second part required dealing with the problem’s one nemesis, a smallish boulder tucked at the base to the slight right.

working the move to the first sloper, my right foot just left of that nemesis block at the base, the actual way I sent was slightly different... dig the scarf? freakin' cold without sun.

We arrived in the park late Monday, no attendant on duty, and went straight to GTR. Jill wanted to send Battle of the Bulge, and off we went after a meager warm-up. Things didn’t go so well as the previous night’s activities took its toll, or maybe she just wasn’t warmed up. As Jill got the rhythm of the moves, she started to get tired. For a short bit, she looked solid then she worked the last moves to the left of the bulge, the real crux, and let it be.  Just right and starting at the lip of the roof is another rock feature that makes for another problem called Battle From the Bulge, v3?.  At the base of this sizable cutout, the climb proceeds onto a slope then on to a trans-versing crack. If this could be linked to the start of the Battle of the Bulge problem, it would make for a splendid line! Jill almost did the Battle From the Bulge previously; this time it went down easily–no sun on the sloping crimp!

matching in the crux of battle from the bulge (shot jan. 23).

Battle From the Bulge, v3ish; starts matched where his right hand is (shot jan. 23).

charlie with the knee bar and about to "crush" the sloper (shot jan. 23).

So after her frustrations with the Battle of the Bulge problem, we moved the pads uphill and started work. The sun was setting and the motivation was OK, at least for the time being, as we had smartly prepared some hot tea earlier while still in the van. I called it Upside Down Pineapple Cake, v6 or 7 (Update: I think Battle of the Bulge is probably more like v7 or 8). A stone’s throw away are the two lines, Blood Orange and Orange Marmalade. I have no idea the relationship, but at least the upside down part makes sense. As some of the images above show, the Battle boulder is to the left. And for the start, a shallow pad would be preferred over the 4″ Shogun. I’m a big fan of a decently large 2″ pad supplement that I can wrap around the shogun for transport. The Tanto, at 1″, worked ok for the very start, just in case we slipped off the start and landed on our tailbone on the rock below, but its flexibility can limit its capacity to stay in one place… a solid 2″ pad without any hinges or breaks would be ideal.

I've done the first move...

the very limited environment for starting... that shogun really fills up the area and was probably harder to avoid then to actually do the first two moves.

pulling the heel hook and replacing it at the start hold

setting up for the last move...

The line has cool moves on excellent rock, marred by boulders too close for comfort. 7 moves to the top with the last move making the entire effort worth it, IMHO. 🙂

Here is one of the upper moves on Battle of the Bulge:

bypassing the "bulge" can be awkward and cruxy

So in my “going backwards” approach, here are some images from a project we worked on the previous night.

fricken cool moves, but short, Plummer's Crack project.

The two images above and the ones below are all out in the Outlier boulders towards East Virgin Isles/Islands which we’re tentatively calling the inliers cause they sit between the roadside piles and the East Virgin Isles/Islands. The Plummer’s Crack project is unique in that the crack is very hard to jam, and there are almost no feet, but there’s enough for sure. I do 3 moves just to set up to reach above that sloper my left hand is on. It gets me to a very bad pinch then I have to launch up to a poor sloping “knob,” for lack of a better word, which is next to another “knob” that has a 2 fingertip crimp. Lock this with the foot on that left sloper my hand is reaching and the top is gym quality. 😉 An infrequent finish. 🙂 This thing feels like 8 or 9… but I’ve not done that big move to the first sloping “knob.”

you can see the two knobs directly above the crack.

this mantel, which starts just left of Jill's left hip, and another one to her right are fun and sweet. Both unnamed, this one is probably vb- and the left one is v1.

The Hanging Face, v1, a nice clean face that follows the patina to the top, on the same boulder as the mantels above.



~ by r. mulligan on 2011/03/11.

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