night sessions again…

Since the previous weekend, we’ve started to climb, or at least tried, friday and saturday nights. I say try because after working friday, driving 2 1/2 hours, climbing after dark starts to feel more like punishment and sleep time than fun. Then again, I’ll chalk it up to just lack of routine for now. This weekend was no exception. Both fridays, we tried the same problem shown in the M2, North End post from 4/23. Last friday, we didn’t warm up enough, this time we were ready. I felt strong for 3 or 4 tries. Dang, the movement sensation goes from obvious (just intense body tension), to absolutely clueless, and then I figured it out. I get tired in the right rear delt and triceps to the point that I can’t even feel I’m tired, but I favor not using them and resort to pulling too hard with the heel hook. End result: heel hook blows every time. Here’s a shot made using 2 flash strobes.

about to fall, again.

Last weekend was sufficiently warmer to warrant a new approach; this weekend wasn’t, but we still tried. Friday night was a bit chilly, and saturday morning, instead of hiking to this new area (hint: fricken sweet!), we climbed during the day in the shade, and it was perfect. Days like this make josh unbeatable, maybe not for the climbing, per se, but for the whole experience, I can’t imagine anything better, at least not 2 hours away.

When the temps, the clouds, the wind, and the sun are just right, I can’t imagine or have remembered a better day anywhere in socal. The mountains always make me feel a bit clostrophobic, with exceptions. I’ve had days at Blacks that are unforgettable. In fact I remember this day every time I think of Blacks:

Al Lew, in the waning sun

the sea of water (vapor)…

Back to the “high” desert. F@*k that sweet nemesis; ego bruised, it was time to just climb. After the phone call from Robert that Christina was feeling ill, we took our time getting starting thinking anything after 10am would be a bit hot, so we headed out by 1 or so. Instead of the usual warmups at the southwest corner of M2, we decided to find some new ones on the south and southeast corner. First up: Junk Bonds. Not a good start.

Junk Bonds, v1; a name so deserving.

Right hand is continually disintegrating, target crimp punctured Jill’s finger on the her first go at hanging it. Top out grainy. It’s fun and did its job. Second up was a surprising opposite.

The Grouper, v2 or 3, is nice and techie. Hopping the left foot up to this position wasn’t easy, but then again we weren’t warmed up.


long reach to the intrusion… Jill’s fingers are almost over it.

just because, and the problem is worthy

Had I known how much I’d like a hat like this, I would have gotten one a long time ago. Then again, I may have preferred something else besides climbing like getting the shit kicked outta me from big animals. Probably not; I can’t even eat ’em. I just found it to be so fun to wear (oiled cotton). 🙂

These warmups pretty much warmed us up having taken enough tries on them. We had already scouted at least 4 crimp lines in this southeast corner. First up is the Backside, v5. Fall sucks. The last move is real committing not only because it’s long, but because you have to fall straight like the plumb or out to the right. It’s quite good, but we couldn’t get a picture of the top since I asked Jill to stem between the boulders and spot me. She has a simple request: if it looks like I’m falling, shove me out to the opening.

right hand ends up higher and the left finds an intermediate before going for the summit.

fyi, the start holds.

To the right (facing the problem) is another boulder with 3 sweet and easy slabs. Jill did the left, I did the middle and we forgot to do the right. Next time for sure. As Jill ran back to the van to get her bat detector, and sunset approaching, I hauled the pads over to the next project. The Black Dagger, v5. Jill found this gem, and we worked it for a short bit one previous dusk day. Sunday, we climbed it.

setting up… the Black Dagger is visible down the face of the rock.

the try before the send, I wasn’t sure of the integrity of that right hand crimp, so I got a spot. Jill sent it right after.

~ by r. mulligan on 2010/05/03.

2 Responses to “night sessions again…”

  1. you are having more fun than me, bishop sucks and josh rules…blah, blah, blah. but seriously…metolius?

    • oops (forgot to photoshop it out 😉 ), seriously, carrying the flashed air on top of the shogun is not fun (did it a bunch, and now my legs are HUGE), so I opted for the metolius (Jill’s). We brought it thinking we’d trek out to this new area (I’ll call ya and give you the lowdown) to show RTM, but Christina fell sick. Great filler pad but useless as a mains, and I wouldn’t be able to carry what I want without doing the front-loader-pack option. Regarding the metolius, or other similar pads with the lighter foam, they’re great for longer approaches, but the foam breaks down real quick (my shogun foam is till good after over 5 years) bringing up, for me, the environmental side where I’d rather use better foam and not have to replace it so often. I’ve mentioned it to Flashed because I’d like to have the option (increasing the light foam’s lifespan since it’s only used sparingly) … or… whatcha doing now that bishop is too hot?

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