Timeline 12-2007: The Angry Pacifist

Credit goes to Mike Brady for insisting that we head over to the wash west of Alister Cave. Finally, after we finished our sess in the cave, we started down the back side of the cave formation into the gully/wash. Facing north and nestled up against the formation west the cave formation, about half way into the canyon from its southern mouth, The Angry Pacifist is invisible to all but those that scramble into the boulders on the west side of the wash.

The hold at my right foot is the start hold, followed by several campus moves off slopers to reach the right hand hold.

Though this problem was covered in an early socalbouldering.com (now westcoastbouldering.com) post, I wanted to include this since it occurred about the time Jon, Mike, myself and others started a renewed focus for new lines. The problem is quite good and the finish is first rate. The goal is to reach a right jug/sidepull about a meter long out of sight but above the left black streak left of where I’m at (above). But, as expected, it’s not just a matter of “reaching” it. After climbing up to the high point 3 times, I finally decided that the only way to do it was to trust a good crimp that was outlined with a thin seam of a crack. And it’s not just trusting it, to do the move, you have to heel hook the incut your hands are in before reaching the crimp. I think you get the gist of the situation.

The moves aren’t hard, just committing.

This is the incut before the last sequence of moves. The bottom of the finish hueco is barely seen at the top of the image above the brown streak.

Another view showing the spotters below. photos ©RtM

~ by r. mulligan on 2010/04/24.

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