M2, north end

Last weekend, we again revisited the M2 crag; this time we focused on the north end where the problem, 2 Peas on the Stem of the Tree of Life, sits. Directly behind this problem sits a crazy project worthy to do. The topout and the fall zone have issues, though. Instead, we focused on the doable lines, or so we thought, in the immediate vicinity.

End Game, v4, is really a fun problem. Well, except for the exit moves, it’s really fun. The crack line runs into another boulder creating a back wall that forces the line to exit maybe 3 feet too early, hence the End Game. The first 2 moves are the hardest, followed by fun traversing to jugs. Unfortunately, the finishing mantel is contrived, but definitely challenging. 😉

the problem starts matched at the right hand.

the fall starts to get worse... but the holds grow in size, too.

From here things look good until the “end game.”

Jill has yet to realize what is in store for her!

As the closeup shot shows, there is little room for error. I intentionally climbed it without a shirt because it kept dragging along the back boulder. After many attempts, many thoughts, I finally figured it out. Truth is, I almost called it done: a shimney ascent!

no room for error.

the mantel and heelhook (sorry for the butt shot)

After finally unlocking the secret to this gem/craziness, we turned to another mint stone line: a thin face/slab climb. Called the Ditch Face, v1, it’s also plagued by another boulder sitting just left of the crux move. WTF? Or should I say: standard fare for the day.

the line starts to the right on the horizontal continuous edge.

just about to get jammed up...

once matched, things start to look better.

the end. continue to the top...

The next problem is about technique. I, at first, was not too worried about the problem. I saw it as a cool, but short line on excellent rock, and so, worth doing. I ended up breaking all the rules when it comes to prepping and preparing to send a line. I assumed the mantel and setup to dyno to the lip was just a matter of working out the body position and then doing it. Boy, was I too impatient. The heel hook required serious body tension, and once my body tension subsided, I was left with crappy execution and many falls.

project face... the "chuckfalla" (after a dozen or so falls, I finally accept defeat)

...at this very moment, I was feeling solid, but I ended up dropping my hand to "hang" the base of my palm on the shelf and attempt to reach right to the lip. It was all downhill from this point on.

This problem goes down the next time I’m on it, then on to a cool but scary roof problem above the Ditch Face. Stay tooned…

After this, it was dark, so we headed over to a blunt arete in the mantel field. It faces west and was sitting in the sun in the afternoon, but now it was dark so time to get to work. Unfortunately, it’s hard and our tips were getting a bit thin. It climbs thin crimps to a serious combo of deadpoints. The blunt arete above me includes a jump to an intrusion, then a hand-foot match and slap up the blank arete. There is also a sit start left along the horizontal rail that ends at where I’m at.

clean, clean, clean. The "wishbone" arete, named after the Wishbone mantels on the backside.

Advertisements

~ by r. mulligan on 2010/04/23.

2 Responses to “M2, north end”

  1. damn….really…damn…need to get to JT

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s

 
%d bloggers like this: