a guided tour to a secret spot

Two saturdays ago, we finally got back to finishing some of our projects at the M2 crag. That problem that tore my tip? Sent, and with new beta. Instead of trying to use a shite crystally crimp, I opted to match on the undercling and then bump up to the second sidepull/undercling. After committing to a high backstep, a long reach yields a full hand sloper. It’s called rite of spring, v5, and it starts off of a smaller boulder sandwiched between two larger boulders. Padding is tricky since the smaller boulder is crowned steeply, but at only 4 moves, it’s over quick. Jill spotted me on the long reach so no shots of the finish move.

first of 4 shots... the start pull on.

the match.... the only grainy hold of concern.

the second undercling... (the next foot is at her lower hand)

starting to walk my right foot up...

This problem sits right amongst the other ones done on the southwest corner of the formation, M2 (which is also a stone’s throw from the mantel area), and they sit below the bookshelf boulder (facing south) and the traverse wall. This traverse problem, now tentatively called the Hummingbird Traverse because a very loud and aggressive hummingbird tried to either get a real close look or intimidate us into leaving, is turning out to be a bit hard. The crux is trying to match through a pair of slopers with the worse one the last one to use . . . and use, I must, going long to a sidepull while still hanging from a heel hook, or so I’ve been trying.

wrong foot but right hands (I heel hook behind me now)

Myotis, v3. it starts at the lip of the roof to the left of her right foot.

On sunday, we met up with Robert and Christina and hiked to various very high quality boulders. all of it was amazing rock and different at each spot. The first boulder we came to had not been climbed, simply because a much larger and more promising boulder sat in plain sight and maybe 5 minutes away. We warmed up on this smaller one adding 6 fun lines on perfect stone (from left to right starting at corner next to shelf):

short but perfect stone

due to confidentiality issues, we can only show you robert and Christina but nothing else.

ok. just kidding. The guidebook author looking out onto new frontiers...

christina on the left-most problem, the arete. it starts under the roof on the angled crack to her right.

1. left corner, v1 (starts on angled horizontal under roof)
2. left face, v2 (eliminit, same start)
3. right face, v3 (eliminit, same start)
4. undercling face, v4 (starts on angled undercling 5 feet to right of right face)
5. Impaler Mantel, v2 (start at lip over head, mantel, around corner on north face)
6. corner, v0 (start at corner right from mantel shelf, low start)

From here, we went on to the next boulder that Robert and Christina had climbed on, establishing several new lines. The downclimb, shown here with me awkwardly negotiating, is just right of Christina’s very technical, yet unnamed???, thin crack line. Both Jill and I repeated it, after some work, and both thought it to be v5 or 6.

what the heck? time to turn around and exit this thing.

the thin crack arcing left over the backside of the boulder is the yet unnamed problem by Christina.

This is the low start to Christina's problem. Both Jill and I bailed on it only to send the stand.

Jill working the crux. (all images of Jill and I courtesy Robert Miramontes)

start of the crux sequence.

The thin crack that arcs left from the base of the very large lightning bolt chimney is probably v5 or 6. The face in front of Robert and I (in overview shot) is another problem Robert did. The crack on the opposite side is yet another problem and the face to its left I did while there.

unnamed. it starts off the hold that my right foot is on. This is basically the crux. it finishes through the lower angle part that meets the wide crack.

We continued on to the next area, passing several outstanding boulders that showed limited chalk on various holds. Robert and Christina had been out to these boulder at least 1 year ago, if not earlier; neither of them was sure how long ago. We finally reach our destination. Awesome. Most all the rock is superb. The traversing crack I sent was immaculate. Being size dependent, small fingers would fare well, but the last move is the equalizer. 🙂 I wish I had an image of the mantel/high step. It’s called Amnesia, v4.

first burn. feet are small once you commit to the traverse. (not sure what Jill is thinking!)

when i top out, the left hand is further left, the right is where the left is and the right toe is approximately where the right hand is now. it's an outstanding topout.

here is a project called Crazy Horse. It starts behind me about my stomach or chest level, ending left above my hands. Rock is simply first rate, and as you can tell, I'm simply mesmerized.

~ by r. mulligan on 2010/04/23.

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